Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Calm Before The Storm

What an interesting spring season. That's about all I can say about it. I feel like we had a good early season and kind of a weak late season.

Dobbe started things off right in Monolith land by cleaning up his last remaining project in Perfect Medium. Then Ryan came into town and cleaned up Venus Rising at the lake and Highly Executed out at Dodge. Soon after, he fell off the face of the earth and Dobbe fell prey to the mighty frisbee disc.

Remo had a great early season and cleaned off his major project up at Monolith in his new problem, Sex and Chocolate With a Cherry on Top. It was a huge goal for him and he was beyond psyched about it. I was very happy to see if finally go down as I'd noticed the line years ago and wondered why no one had done it. He also sadly fell prey to the mighty frisbee disc and soon after busted up his ankle doing so. We had to put him down and send him to the glue factory...I mean he went to a farm. A nice big farm.

The Wisconsin Bouldering Legend himself graced us with his presence a couple times this spring and left us with a couple of new problems. First was "The Lamest Show On Earth", the left exit on that boulder. Second was "Tunder Tighs" up on the West Bluff. He's vowed to come back and climb every damn climb on the Greatest Show boulder. Should be fun to watch.

Beautiful Soup got it's lone ascent this spring when Travis Melin satched it up rather quickly. He also cleaned up Jenga in a couple tries and put some serious work in on the Falling Pieces project.

RV had a nice spring as well, even if he doesn't think so. He finished up Sex and Chocolate and quickly called it one of the worst problems he's done. Then later in the summer he finished his long time goal of climbing Moj in the heat of summer. It was a VERY impressive send and he did it twice that day! Very happy for him on that one.

Alpine Club also got a surprise send when Kyle from Milwaukee came up and did it with the bump method. Paul also got impressively close before the heat shut him down. It'll be interesting to see how that problem progresses as time goes on. The "move" had been done by three people in the previous 6 years I believe. In the last 6 months 3 people have done it with the bump beta.

In a last stand sort of way Jeremy did Venus Rising to start off his year. It's always nice to see projects go down so late in the season!

Now. Onto my predictions. Hmmm. We got some work to do this fall guys. That said, I do think it's going to be a great fall. This summer has been the worst in recent memory and I for one can't wait for it to be over.

1 - Beautiful Soup - 1/7 - This problem needs to get done. A lot. It's good, classic and has perfect rock. Get on it!!!

2 - Alpine Club - 1/3 - I may have under guessed this one...

3 - Keymaker - 0/2 - I'm confident this one will get done.

4 - Moj - 1/3 - I think this one will get done one or two more times this year.

5 - Black Sheep - 0/2 - We really need to get back to this. God damn. It's actually a decent problem.

6 - Sandstone Violence - 0/3 - Confident in this one.

7 - Sex and Chocolate - DONE!! NICE WORK REMO!!!!!

8 - New Hotspots - Massive Vertigo Area, East Bluff, Steinke - So much more exploring to be done people!!!! Get out there!!!

9 - 7 New problems V6 or harder will be established - 2/7 - I still think that'll hold true. So much to develop!

10 - One double digit problem will be put up - 0/1 - There are a couple of candidates for this. It'll happen. Give it time and temps.

If you want to check out the original predictions link go here.

Let me know if I left anyone else out!!!!!!!


  1. Black sheep will get uprated to v12.


  2. Umm this Wisonsin Bouldering Legend, last I saw there was a bit of Wisconsin Fail at pad golf. C'mon guys, let's keep it real, climbing is ghey, pad golf is the real reason we go up the talus.

  3. Good point RV. Nic if you want to step up your game as a whole you're gonna need to practice at Pad Golf.