tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24656882982028640842024-03-14T07:57:28.542-05:00Sicky Gnar Gnarnow you know, and knowing is half the battleAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.comBlogger400125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-44102755181365272972012-10-31T09:40:00.000-05:002012-10-31T09:44:34.021-05:00Sicky Gnar Gnar<span style="font-family: arial;">17,127 Unique Visitors</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">61,103 Visits</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">100,578 Pageviews</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">1,590 views for the most popular post, the review of Organic's Full Pad/Half Pad Combo</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">2,871 Comments</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">When I started this blog I didn't know where it was going to end up. That's the truth. I still don't know why I started it in the beginning. For the first few months I spent way too much time concerned about getting people to read what I had to say. I wrote reviews, commented on climbing news and did anything and everything that I could to get people to notice.</span><br />
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Why? No idea. It's fair to say that the site didn't have a focus other than my general thoughts. </div>
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Looking back on 2009 though, it's clear to me that there was a <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/2009/05/devils-lake-bouldering-alpine-club-and-beautiful-soup/">seminal moment</a> that spring. I still vividly remember Remo and I driving to Ski Hi and meeting up with Brian as we waited for the last member of the party. The moment that the Five Ten Van started rolling up the hill signaled a change for midwestern bouldering.</div>
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I could sit here and spout different accomplishments and milestones but there's no need. As soon as that day happened the mission for this blog became crystal clear. Devil's Lake needed a bouldering resource and I was going to do anything and everything to make that happen.</div>
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Looking back, that's exactly what WE did. It was not just me. It wasn't Eggy, RV, Nic, Aaron, Brian, Remo, Katie, Ian, Sweaty or Dobbe. It wasn't Chris and Sarah, nor was it Sam, Blake, Peter or Jeremy. </div>
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What ended up happening was so much better than one core group of people developing an area. Throughout the 2009 season we created a community that hadn't existed before. All of a sudden a culture of bouldering and development emerged and an explosion of growth was experienced that no one could have expected. </div>
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More than anything though, it was bigger than the people mentioned above. It would be impossible for me to mention everyone who made a contribution over the past 3-4 years and that's the most beautiful thing about what we've done.</div>
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It's more than just one person and as a result the momentum won't stop. All the information is out there for anyone who's interested and if someone wants to go develop a new spot, all they've got to do is put on a pair of boots and go for a walk. I guarantee you there's more.</div>
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I've said to myself many times that I didn't want this site to wander off into oblivion. I never wanted it to gradually stop and slowly become less relevant. Instead I wanted it to be over when I felt it wasn't needed anymore. The impossible beauty of where we're at and how far we've come is that this site isn't necessary to create buzz or get people excited anymore. </div>
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All of it worked. Devil's Lake is the de facto place to go bouldering when you're in Madison. A combination of the rock, the experience, the diversity of climbing and the vast potential have made it that way. </div>
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It's with all that said that I can write the words I've wanted to for awhile now, fittingly enough on the 400th post. </div>
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This is the last post that I'll write for this site. </div>
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Sicky Gnar Gnar has followed me through everything. My marriage to the woman of my dreams. The unexpected death of my Aunt. An ending of one career and the beginning of another. </div>
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While in the end the site will be remembered as a "climbing blog", it's meant so much more to me than that. It's been a place to vent, a place to go through the growing pains of a "new area" and a spot for people to connect and make plans to go climbing. </div>
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Above it all though, my favorite part of this site has been the comments and the friends that I've met. I've created amazing, close friendships with Nic, Eggert, Sweaty, Josh, Kelly and Jeff. Without this site my life would be less, solely because I wouldn't have had the opportunity to become so close to all of you. I love you all and I'm so glad I had the chance to meet you.</div>
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And as far as the comments go, I always enjoyed opening up my email and seeing a couple of new comments in the inbox. LOVED that.</div>
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When I'm bored I often go back through the comments and re-read what people had to say. Of everything I read and re-read, the one that stuck out the most was my post about my Aunt Bonnie. To be honest it probably had no place on this site but I was caught so off guard by the whole deal that I had to write about it. </div>
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When I re-read the comments this past winter I was blown away. Initially I started to cry because the support you all gave me meant so much. By the end of the comments I had tears streaming down my face. </div>
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I don't think you guys know how much it means to me and I want to make sure you know that before I stop writing. If you ever commented and I never responded, it was absolutely nothing personal. I did my best to keep up but there were ones I missed. I appreciate to no end that you took the time to sit down and write something. </div>
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And to my regulars. Remo, Eggert, Brian, RV, Nic, Sweaty.</div>
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Eggnuts - I've always appreciated what you had to say. You've served as a calm voice in and otherwise charged crowd and it's something that is greatly appreciated. Your constant support and ability to find something to talk about when no one else can is nothing short of amazing. You are one of a very small crowd that I can call a dear friend and I have this site to thank for that. Thank you so much for being here. It has always been appreciated.</div>
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RV - What can I say, you were my best man in my wedding and there isn't a day that goes by that I don't wish you lived in Madison still. It's a lesser city as a result and we don't have as much fun. Through thick and thin you've been here for me and you have the sad honor of posting the first ever comment under the name "The Penguin". I miss you and Sofie dearly and can't wait for the day that we live in the same town again. Your consistent racism has always been a welcome relief when far too serious tones have prevailed. On top of that, I think we can all agree that the <a href="http://sickygnargnar.blogspot.com/2009/08/farewell-old-friend.html">Farewell Old Friend</a> post is the greatest thing to be put on the internet, ever. Thank you again for being my best friend.</div>
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Remo - There are four days that stick out to me when I think of 2009. Two of them were spent with you and I couldn't be happier about that. First was the day I spoke of above and second was the day that you showed me what would become Moj. Both days showed the potential that the lake held and I'm so happy to have shared them with you. Thank you for everything you've done for Devil's Lake and thank you for being a friend. I appreciate it more than you could imagine.</div>
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Sweaty - Still remember the day that Nic did Keymaker? Remember meeting us up at Moj? I do. Watching you lumber up the talus, screaming and yelling about how terrible it was and how much you hated the lake was one of the most enjoyable experiences I've had. By the end of the day you'd done Jenga and Massive Vertigo and left with a completely different opinion of Devil's Lake. Your infectious enthusiasm and love for all things absurd make it an absolute joy to climb with you whenever we can. Sadly, now that you're in Colorado those days will be fewer, but no less enjoyable when they do happen. I'm so glad this site brought us back together and I really can't thank you enough for always being here. It's meant a lot.</div>
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Nic - Who would have known that you'd become one of my best friends? I sure didn't and neither did Katie. What you did to the lake is nothing short of astounding. You invigorated a community and help energize an otherwise dormant area. The feeling at boulders the night after you did Keymaker was incredible. To this day I can't remember being at the gym and having it feel so energized. I'll never forget that feeling and I want to thank you once more for what you've done for the Lake. You wrote in a comment once that sharing of info was the future of bouldering in the midwest and that shaped my view more than you could imagine. There are so many other things I could say but I'll leave it at one more thank you.</div>
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Brian - You've somehow been a constant voice without saying much. When you do though it's always even keeled and logical. You're one of many that have made this site what it is today and I want to thank you for that. It seems that we get very rare days together each year and they're always fun and always exhausting. This spring on the East Bluff, the day up at Moj. They're both days that stick out in my head as happy memories and the fact that I got to spend them with someone as awesome and famous as "The Narc", only makes them better. Honestly though, who would have thought this all up when you were still climbing at boulders back in 2005? Thanks for always being there.</div>
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Katie - You are absolutely everything to me. I could talk about how you've grown as a climber or about the time you told me "I'm never climbing here again!" the first day you climbed at the lake. There are so many things I could say. The downside with all that, is that I can never seem to put into words what you mean to me. I love you more than I ever imagined was possible and each day I wake up next you you I count myself lucky. Thank you so much for being supportive of this stupid little site and allowing me to put up so many terribly embarrassing pictures of you. What you've given me over the past handful of years is so much greater than I could ever hope to return. Thank you for always being by my side.</div>
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And for anyone who has ever read this blog, thank you. I really do appreciate it and I want to say that the fact that people still show up and read what I have to write is just stunning to me. I don't get it, but I'm thankful for it. If you've ever enjoyed, hated or read this site I encourage you to leave a comment here letting me know. </div>
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If I had to leave people with one thing, it'd be this. Don't hesitate to walk around that final corner. Devil's Lake is full of surprises and I was victim to that this past spring. When Katie and I went up to Don't F With The Bees a month or so ago something looked oddly familiar. I pulled out my phone and sure enough. Sitting in there from this past spring was a picture of the giant pillar that holds Bees. Back in March I'd taken a picture of the pillar and promptly walked to the right, not the left, thinking that I saw more potential there. Little did I know that 20 feet away sat one of the better problems of this season.</div>
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There's always more to be done at Devil's Lake. Don't settle for the status quo.</div>
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Thanks for listening guys.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com43tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-8315904068816960142012-10-30T15:47:00.000-05:002012-10-30T15:47:00.452-05:00Pictures.Here's some pictures from this past fall. Lots of funtivities.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-32679098403352636652012-10-29T15:18:00.001-05:002012-10-29T15:18:33.372-05:00Fall VidKatie and I had another stellar weekend at the lake. Temps were super cold on Saturday but conditions were great over on What Up Weasel. Aaron and I punted rather hard after having done the crux move but hopefully it'll go somewhat soon. <br />
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Sunday was spent on the 'fruit problems' over by group leader. Nothing hard other than the one mover, but don't worry guys, I figured out tall beta for that one and can lock the move off almost static to an inch below the hold. Awesome. I feel like Katie on every single problem she's ever tried.<br />
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The other three problems are fun, if not a bit sharp, but it's a great spot to warm up and gets morning sun which was a nice bonus. Peaches and Low Hanging Fruit were my favorites of the four problems there.<br />
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Took a bunch of pictures that I'll post up tomorrow but in the meantime here's the Fall video!!!<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="225" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/52404721?badge=0&color=ffffff" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="400"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/52404721">Fall</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user6560173">Steve Schultz</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-53827454729989020802012-10-15T11:07:00.000-05:002012-10-15T11:07:56.577-05:00Holy BouldersIn a world of ever changing climbing access it's nice to see stories like this come across. It seems that the <a href="https://www.kintera.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.8371223/k.C7CB/Protect_Whats_Holy/apps/ka/sd/donor.asp?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=8371223&en=itIMIYNJJfJMJXNGIcKLKXONIpI3JiNWKkKTIcNSIeIULfORIoL9F">Holy Boulders will finally be climber owned for a long time to come</a>. <div>
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Not a whole lot to say other than it makes me smile to see a map, directions and a crude topo drawn for the Holies. For years and years it has been shrouded in semi-secrecy and I remember going down there with Steve Day back in early 2006 for the first time. We searched for months to find decent directions until I finally got them from a couple people, Chris Craft included. </div>
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When we finally made out way down to the boulders we were stunned at what we saw and it makes me so happy to see that the local climbers worked so hard for so many years to reach this solution.</div>
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All too often people are all talk and no action(myself included) and it was great to see such a 'final' announcement made without a long preamble of a potential solution. They saw the 'for sale' sign and just went out and did it. Awesome work guys.</div>
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Now, go and donate a few bucks to the project to help it get finalized! They still need $185,000 to make this a true reality so help them out as much as you can!!!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-83448238372440617702012-10-11T09:30:00.001-05:002012-10-11T09:30:10.936-05:00Weasel/RaccoonKatie and I spent a couple days this weekend and again last night up by Smooth Operator trying a couple of the nice new problems left from this spring. Katie set her sights on Fat Raccoon and I set mine on What Up Weasel. <br />
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Katie finished up Fat Raccoon last night in impressive fashion and did a new, more direct finish to it. Oddly enough she used holds that Chris used when he did the problem this spring but ended up cutting out 4-5 moves that got you out onto the left arete. <br />
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It was impressive just how fast she did the line and the crux move is childs play for her now as she can repeat it relatively on command. Last night she definitely did that move more times than she didn't, that's for sure.<br />
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Fittingly enough we saw a very fat Raccoon on our way out of the park.<br />
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My time on Weasel didn't go as well as we were hoping but I was able to do the moves and came agonizingly close to finishing last night. Unfortunately we ran out of light and I ran out of energy on the surprisingly physical line. <br />
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After spending a couple days on it this past weekend my body was wrecked and I still couldn't do the crux lurch. Took a couple days off and then did the crux the first two times I tried it last night. Funny how shit like that works.<br />
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I also think I figured out an easier topout than what others have used. Did you guys really match on the slopers and go out right??? So much easier to grab the giant jug six inches from your left hand and directly above your left foot.<br />
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Really looking forward to hopping back on both of those problems though! They're excellent.<br />
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Here are some pics. Fun.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-4486089125994392472012-10-05T16:35:00.000-05:002012-10-05T16:35:14.967-05:00PicsAnyone getting out this weekend??? Looks like we're heading out possibly both days. Totally sicky. <br />
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Mike found some more new stuff over in Lost and Found, which as it turns out, is directly above the Twins boulders. Sounds like we might go check some of that out one of the days.<br />
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Katie's up at Burma right now trying Tick Tock and the weather looks prime once again so I'm assuming the Leaf People will be out again in force. Sounds like Katie did the lower moves second try just now but the top was dirty. Fun.<br />
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Anyways, here's some pics from last weekend. Enjoy.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-43423436109834571142012-09-28T14:56:00.001-05:002012-09-28T14:56:14.967-05:00Hueco VidFinished up the Hueco Video this week. Enjoy Kevin climbing a few of the classics.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="225" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/50376436?color=ffffff" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="400"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/50376436">Hueco In The Summer</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user6560173">Steve Schultz</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
Anyone getting out this weekend? Both days look incredible. Sounds like we're gonna spend at least a little bit of time up by Sunny and 60's again. Really psyched on that area now so hopefully we'll get another couple problems established.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-8542688433771904482012-09-24T11:48:00.000-05:002012-09-24T11:48:39.290-05:00East Bluff<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<br />
With Katie out nursing a shoulder/back injury Aaron and I took the opportunity to have a nice little "Man Date" up at the lake on Sunday. The weather couldn't have been better with sun everywhere and highs in the upper 50's. <br />
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We started our way up through the East Bluff North talus field with the new area by Sunny and 60's being our goal. We stopped along the way to look at a couple of potential pits(all yours Dobbe) and plodded our way up the field. About halfway up Aaron found a cool slab that baked nicely in the sun and we set our stuff down to warm up.<br />
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It turned out to be a great little boulder with 4 distinct lines on it, all weighing in at the hefty grade of V0. We played around there for a bit taking turns on all the lines and enjoying the day.<br />
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After some fun on the slab we made our way up to the boulder just above Sunny and 60's. In all we spent maybe 2 hours fixing the landing for two potential problems on this really cool boulder. Once it was to our liking we worked out the easier of the two lines and we each did "The Little Roof That Could" which weighed in around V3.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screen grab from video of The Little Roof That Could</td></tr>
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<br />
I repeated it for video and we each ran a couple laps on it to warm up again. As soon as we were done with that we tried the project that goes up and right off of the same cluster of start holds. After some failed beta attempts we figured out a sequence that looks rather possible, unlike most of the projects I seem to find. It should be about 5-7 moves long and I'm guessing it could be around V9 or so?? Not really sure. <br />
<br />
In the end I could be totally wrong and it could be impossible. History has shown I'm not the best judge of whether a project is possible or not!!<br />
<br />
Katie's starting to feel a bit better and hopefully we'll be able to get out and enjoy some fall weather this weekend! Anyone else get out?Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-76950117133261355512012-09-20T13:24:00.000-05:002012-09-20T13:30:29.710-05:00Climbingdevilslake.comMaybe 6 months ago Eggy and I tried working through some of the "higher ups" at Mountain Project to see if there was any way to resurrect climbingdevilslake.com. All of the other sister sites were still up and running but sadly the DL one wasn't a site anymore. <br />
<br />
No matter what we tried we seemed to hit road blocks until finally it seemed we ran out of options. While most of the info on the site was transferred over I vaguely remember some absolutely classic forum posts and discussions about the area and badly wanted to see them again.<br />
<br />
Then today I randomly clicked on a link on Supertopo that lead to the old site. I didn't expect anything other than a "page doesn't exist" welcome note. I was happily surprised to see the old site back up and running!<br />
<br />
I immediately opened up pretty much every page I could and started combing through it all. I highly recommend spending a couple minutes on the site as the general history of it is really interesting. A couple of the boulderers from the last generation give a couple vague hints at other still unlisted boulder problems and there are some absolute gems of comments on there.<br />
<br />
My personal favorites:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: lemonchiffon; font-family: verdana; font-size: 10px;"><i>The year of the send? I would think probably not. Remember, though it may not be listed, everything (and I mean everything) at Devil's Lake has been climbed before. However, you can climb and help relist the route. Even give it your own name. Heck, most names and ascents have been lost in time. Still, they have been done before. Boulder problems? I would seriously doubt that John Gill left anything untouched. :-)</i></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: lemonchiffon; font-family: verdana; font-size: 10px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><i>If you dont know of the reserve then you just have to get out bouldering more. The climbers will tell you in person but not over the web! Its a special place and shouldn't get prostituted on the internet. If you're out there climbing you'll find out about the sweet spots. Please don't spew beta about the low key areas. If you know where they're at cool, if not ask people out climbing next time you're at the lake. Thanks- dlsp locals</i></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-35673142101339066522012-09-17T16:56:00.001-05:002012-09-17T16:56:26.178-05:00Dry Fired<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Dry Fire - The practice of firing a firearm without ammunition. That is, to pull the trigger and allow the hammer or striker to drop on an empty chamber.</i></div>
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Anyone who has bouldered at Devil's Lake has experienced the Dry Fire. That fleeting feeling of being completely, 100% secure right before you find yourself unexpectedly falling to the crash pads. </div>
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It's a truly beautiful thing. </div>
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I could write volumes about the beauty and the sheer violence of a good dry fire. The immediate pain, reactions of bystanders and complete surprise of it all creates something unique and unexpectedly powerful. </div>
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Instead of writing words that can't equal the act, I'm going to just let you watch this video. I want to thank everyone in the video mainly because it was a joy to spend time with you. The process of making this video took much longer than I expected but I think the final outcome exceeded even my expectations. </div>
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I honestly can't count the number of times someone came up to me and asked when the dry fire video was going to be done. I couldn't even begin to think of how many times I saw the opening clip of Aaron on Tunder Tighs.</div>
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What I can say with complete confidence is that the enjoyment of going home after a long day of climbing and plugging in a 4 second clip to the video was always more entertaining than it probably should've been.</div>
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Above all else though, this video has encompassed more than just the dry fire. If there's ever been something that has expressed my love for climbing, it's this video. It's the random stupidity of someone tripping, or throwing a fit, taking an awkward fall or almost falling out of a tree. The ability to laugh at oneself is essential to living a happy life, and I really hope everyone in this video can do that.</div>
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So with that said, sit down, turn up your volume and enjoy the new video, Dry Fired.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="225" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/49619393?color=ffffff" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="400"></iframe> <a href="" nbsp="nbsp" p="p"></a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-45463687961260657742012-09-14T13:50:00.001-05:002012-09-14T13:50:11.890-05:00Boulder Bash<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieFZ43NH4Fe6jKO9RqYdkYeCFwPvk7QIqpSnIb6SxJV8zjZkmO6mhKMHPGITQhBtj_P0kkUn_3WebUZ3Weo0qrZIIL1Unw_lEjJVKroZ5U_mVv0le-mkb-MPB4u_wh0xwU6TRSRlxyEevj/s1600/boulderbasfinal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieFZ43NH4Fe6jKO9RqYdkYeCFwPvk7QIqpSnIb6SxJV8zjZkmO6mhKMHPGITQhBtj_P0kkUn_3WebUZ3Weo0qrZIIL1Unw_lEjJVKroZ5U_mVv0le-mkb-MPB4u_wh0xwU6TRSRlxyEevj/s400/boulderbasfinal.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boulder Bash</td></tr>
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Alright, it's that time of year again! Time for this years Boulder Bash Competition at Governor Dodge! For those that don't know, this is the second year and based on the response I've seen it should be bigger than last years.<br />
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My one hope for this years go round is that people from Madison/Wisconsin will outnumber other people from Minnesota and Illinois. While it was super cool to see so many supporters from out of state come to last years comp I'd love to see a big representation from the Madison community.<br />
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If you haven't been to Dodge, this is a perfect opportunity to have a walking guidebook around every corner, have a ton of pads and and is the easiest way to experience some of the best bouldering at Governor Dodge. The cost is $35 and registration is from 10-11 tomorrow morning at Group Camp B. Climbing will be from 11-5 and it's a VERY informal competition format that allows you to just add up your points in a cumulative format. <br />
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Looks to be some great prizes this year and it should be an exceptional time.<br />
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I would love to see a great turnout this year as it's the only outdoor comp within 1,000 miles of Madison and all of the proceeds will go towards supporting the Wisconsin Climbers Association. On top of all that the weather looks to be absolutely incredible.<br />
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Hope to see you out there!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-80740455716584368572012-09-11T10:12:00.000-05:002012-09-11T10:12:11.387-05:00Weekend<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCkPCe01LygqVGJ9b5PfTLMvO_5WalMjv7NIlc2cFJiEcJd5fheXYOWWvHxP3V6vdSTJKS1QdBx2FiKIfCEBKmo_vpp7WpHGzEx0RCY-Mf4P4qSgoNDwvL23VMYRJB-CA5rCltF9X-Gxmb/s1600/DSC_1463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCkPCe01LygqVGJ9b5PfTLMvO_5WalMjv7NIlc2cFJiEcJd5fheXYOWWvHxP3V6vdSTJKS1QdBx2FiKIfCEBKmo_vpp7WpHGzEx0RCY-Mf4P4qSgoNDwvL23VMYRJB-CA5rCltF9X-Gxmb/s400/DSC_1463.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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A funny thing happened this weekend. Something that was unthinkable 2-3 years ago and I honestly can't remember a time that it's happened to this extent. Maybe when the Duluth crew came down but I can't remember.<br />
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On Saturday Katie and I took a crew from St. Louis around for the day. We spent some time up at Monolith, North Shore, Anchorpoint and Jenga. As always it was fun taking people around the lake for the day and giving a tour. Venus Rising and Anchorpoint got done by one of the guys and another guy punted off of both after hitting the last hold. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg8EdqpgnRXjoBBMF1X-H6UvQ6z13Z1uTHkkF9wkdKVAkauQOkBubIZ5wf03WPMbknvbcQUnlJEHtNPFf9hWeBpyfZieY1umldvAYRQF0fTa3wrMqL5WdiVicylqjBlTSkt4iXehVma6r5/s1600/DSC_1458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg8EdqpgnRXjoBBMF1X-H6UvQ6z13Z1uTHkkF9wkdKVAkauQOkBubIZ5wf03WPMbknvbcQUnlJEHtNPFf9hWeBpyfZieY1umldvAYRQF0fTa3wrMqL5WdiVicylqjBlTSkt4iXehVma6r5/s400/DSC_1458.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doug on Anchorpoint</td></tr>
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Big Bud and Slope of Dadaism were each done by a number of people and I threw another lap on the latter, remembering how much fun that one is. Surely one of the best at the lake.<br />
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While we were up at Monolith a group of five from Minnesota came by to boulder. They did some of the Spotted Cow problems and later on met up with us over at Jenga. In all there were 12 people bouldering that didn't live in Wisconsin. Not a big number by any stretch but still impressive considering the area and, by my count, more than the 7-8 people that were from Wisconsin.<br />
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A couple things. First off, that's super cool and something that would have been unfathomable in 2009. The fact that the bouldering at the lake has grown to a level where out of state boulderers outnumber in state boulderers to that extent is nothing short of amazing. In 2009 Katie and I saw maybe 3 different groups of boulderers that we didn't know, <b>all year</b>. It just wasn't a place that people went.<br />
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Everyone who reads this post should be proud of the type of area Devil's Lake has turned into.<br />
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Secondly, the diversity of the climbing is astonishing. In total people climbed on established problems ranging from V0-V7 in four different areas on the West and East Bluffs. Another group was out establishing problems over by Smooth Operator and Big Red. On Sunday Dobbe took a group up to Smooth Operator and established another handful of problems.<br />
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It's absolutely incredible to see what type of area Devil's Lake has turned into and the development is nowhere near stopping. <br />
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Just the other day Katie was showing me some pictures of some boulders she found. I paused for a second trying to place the boulders in the pictures. Sure enough. She'd refound the <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/twin-boulders/107558690">Twins Boulders</a> on accident.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiatPEeYg2iRR0SbpYN1iyWi-RsJGaB1S_P7N-EN8GfHMZaCTT8LMeXpKGzlX5PNSF41Qf32ESurxwpt8mlpikNTLs-bspOGDkr6FBJTdCqv0SPUlW4LCxpZYLkxHLFSgDCT_2YtaT4NAm4/s1600/DSC_1479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiatPEeYg2iRR0SbpYN1iyWi-RsJGaB1S_P7N-EN8GfHMZaCTT8LMeXpKGzlX5PNSF41Qf32ESurxwpt8mlpikNTLs-bspOGDkr6FBJTdCqv0SPUlW4LCxpZYLkxHLFSgDCT_2YtaT4NAm4/s400/DSC_1479.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-21943200624335401892012-09-06T19:09:00.000-05:002012-09-06T19:09:20.096-05:00Hueco<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMzB_ROLIIzW8gwugDxzGf_9YP7MGa3oYG00Nhwonasx4vTkavy84WOEpvG3hrgNJukYJOBhUH4eMzlBdjQq0qZP2rKKK2jJnsv1IF6bAUiE6DSdbSjBB2yetagTi0TEMNlZOcvTImyO6X/s1600/DSC_1379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMzB_ROLIIzW8gwugDxzGf_9YP7MGa3oYG00Nhwonasx4vTkavy84WOEpvG3hrgNJukYJOBhUH4eMzlBdjQq0qZP2rKKK2jJnsv1IF6bAUiE6DSdbSjBB2yetagTi0TEMNlZOcvTImyO6X/s400/DSC_1379.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Juarez</td></tr>
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What's there to say anymore when it comes to Hueco Tanks? It's an amazing place and there isn't much to add to that sentiment. If you haven't gone, you should. If you have gone then you can understand the vastness of the place. <br />
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If there was one thing I tried to grasp while we were out there it was just how big the place was. That was the constant struggle when it came to pictures and video. The area is absolutely massive and it seems to go on forever.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEau4nbYDQ1UJ3NKTge9YDLfI5VR0HuGl8FGFFRWGo4FVVQbPXYKGVpL0AOP6z8aR3sk2oN15lisQdPFSWOLNKfthqGg7dmMhFohlUginReJFe6JBxyVwoUVYB7qPXBA0stMnEhhfgSbT6/s1600/DSC_1256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEau4nbYDQ1UJ3NKTge9YDLfI5VR0HuGl8FGFFRWGo4FVVQbPXYKGVpL0AOP6z8aR3sk2oN15lisQdPFSWOLNKfthqGg7dmMhFohlUginReJFe6JBxyVwoUVYB7qPXBA0stMnEhhfgSbT6/s400/DSC_1256.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out over West Mountain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitF9_P_l7NQYtbh-w2XiRqshZ850bkMCL39-Hp7toREQT_Rr6F8HWiOHOEu3Fe7HkxTZmO8iSWHh5Ar_n7HHFxPRg9SFB63KHZxtfjL35x-Piuwua8zJ0N2SQZBoY6qx5RPQUvsMvcMLuC/s1600/DSC_1330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitF9_P_l7NQYtbh-w2XiRqshZ850bkMCL39-Hp7toREQT_Rr6F8HWiOHOEu3Fe7HkxTZmO8iSWHh5Ar_n7HHFxPRg9SFB63KHZxtfjL35x-Piuwua8zJ0N2SQZBoY6qx5RPQUvsMvcMLuC/s400/DSC_1330.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kevin's project</td></tr>
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Katie and I had a nice plan going in and we both executed perfectly. Luckily the 95-100 degree highs assisted us in not getting attached to any one project and using the trip more as a scouting trip for another one down the road.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheobsHiO34uiSnK7OszXIqeLbIzHz7y36BvnrdM2wW-f7l7qHr9ZGBwOAkvASqNrSKSGSyWxnAuNOK9gABudU_Z4LI5ni9tCHN-JdKLov7XomlDhqI0W7-rGpUGLywHxD0g-WQC-QUG7CL/s1600/DSC_1272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheobsHiO34uiSnK7OszXIqeLbIzHz7y36BvnrdM2wW-f7l7qHr9ZGBwOAkvASqNrSKSGSyWxnAuNOK9gABudU_Z4LI5ni9tCHN-JdKLov7XomlDhqI0W7-rGpUGLywHxD0g-WQC-QUG7CL/s400/DSC_1272.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Katie on Babyface</td></tr>
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Frankly, I can't remember a trip where we just messed around happily with rather low motivation. It allowed us to try out a number of different problems and we saw a bunch of different areas in the process.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdebwhCPG-Jotc3RZecZ7AU2c7vrdjbsaEaEyZHJz0t4qSkBtMjs9eWwuzLTyP_M1GrUtH9jj_JTVguMNVofttXWFwLFeSy3D5bAx7Lvo8HmmdFUDdf2pl3FN2Z92hhDKSYeL5i_rW8dlm/s1600/DSC_1265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdebwhCPG-Jotc3RZecZ7AU2c7vrdjbsaEaEyZHJz0t4qSkBtMjs9eWwuzLTyP_M1GrUtH9jj_JTVguMNVofttXWFwLFeSy3D5bAx7Lvo8HmmdFUDdf2pl3FN2Z92hhDKSYeL5i_rW8dlm/s400/DSC_1265.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fyM4eydpO8TLkN4Zsd8DStAX7Evh9CVmSFKLA1GOR923YokgTkmeBGQnX8MgjsANHQlxPmil9Lz6lKUI9zvLfUVbd4CbkAnbnY5VHukpN4rRN2H08FKJ-G-apYi6biGbr65DFiUi2_A4/s1600/DSC_1291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fyM4eydpO8TLkN4Zsd8DStAX7Evh9CVmSFKLA1GOR923YokgTkmeBGQnX8MgjsANHQlxPmil9Lz6lKUI9zvLfUVbd4CbkAnbnY5VHukpN4rRN2H08FKJ-G-apYi6biGbr65DFiUi2_A4/s400/DSC_1291.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdet3-bCfpsCLkOoLJ3_7hGzSFB6IbbYheKiprmkS3rPGIVP_9xSV1GdcAVXN2faC4GJ4f5HovznKvCuIqUvPZD-gLryxf4-dw1bdJa4awLmn8bbB09p3muisoaxJA0nlTaw8I4j16Tq63/s1600/DSC_1312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdet3-bCfpsCLkOoLJ3_7hGzSFB6IbbYheKiprmkS3rPGIVP_9xSV1GdcAVXN2faC4GJ4f5HovznKvCuIqUvPZD-gLryxf4-dw1bdJa4awLmn8bbB09p3muisoaxJA0nlTaw8I4j16Tq63/s400/DSC_1312.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GrxTL78732IMDsFbSnG-x3uaJXilVYc6tsWuQ6wzyU9_hkBUszTc-DCnsNGqYajAFlbv22zjF6LiUrgusCm21ahdSvyhjT48r84MUyFa8c74OIrzUvH9NlBhcqW-G7vVNuqJrv5Cmlmx/s1600/DSC_1350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GrxTL78732IMDsFbSnG-x3uaJXilVYc6tsWuQ6wzyU9_hkBUszTc-DCnsNGqYajAFlbv22zjF6LiUrgusCm21ahdSvyhjT48r84MUyFa8c74OIrzUvH9NlBhcqW-G7vVNuqJrv5Cmlmx/s400/DSC_1350.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jugs, here's your nipple chafing solution!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-jUiuW_25MzbG1Kl530R2K5AEaYYnCCWQdV5Ix62XsLz4qfkSKDPamR4o6dq4e-PcJeoqldpM3EDZpvY_5M8fmsuyxn1RgEwgPTWTIKlumXE5dL0wPMGkUc2FaXDNX9CGf7XyewGJNZ5/s1600/DSC_1361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-jUiuW_25MzbG1Kl530R2K5AEaYYnCCWQdV5Ix62XsLz4qfkSKDPamR4o6dq4e-PcJeoqldpM3EDZpvY_5M8fmsuyxn1RgEwgPTWTIKlumXE5dL0wPMGkUc2FaXDNX9CGf7XyewGJNZ5/s400/DSC_1361.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Kevin seemed the only one interested in trying hard projects with any amount of serious try hard and while he came close on a couple of his projects, even he had to submit to the terrible conditions.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp0FE57zSRenYAMW6PqwNsDZkHd1TGEcKmEDWozCdJdNB6q0tHE27lzZokHu9DKaUbu6ZZSPP1bH68CtGTsEacDCsVgraiRYaYKNOLI9otvlAiggp7cNiVuSKihJpOmEY2h4JgrXu6frfd/s1600/DSC_1085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp0FE57zSRenYAMW6PqwNsDZkHd1TGEcKmEDWozCdJdNB6q0tHE27lzZokHu9DKaUbu6ZZSPP1bH68CtGTsEacDCsVgraiRYaYKNOLI9otvlAiggp7cNiVuSKihJpOmEY2h4JgrXu6frfd/s400/DSC_1085.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kevin on his project</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrbjHgYUjLf4RHbBbYT9QSb6NGkautdi3V0rcJYL00YdMPm6lbnHvcYq-g31tYdqhhU3ICqa-23o0zgVNcg2bJQ3GrPAbNiGbm_gtJGPfAtIa2csp4Jq77MhjLcTNHrs2A2Pa2qYPF8QW_/s1600/DSC_1093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrbjHgYUjLf4RHbBbYT9QSb6NGkautdi3V0rcJYL00YdMPm6lbnHvcYq-g31tYdqhhU3ICqa-23o0zgVNcg2bJQ3GrPAbNiGbm_gtJGPfAtIa2csp4Jq77MhjLcTNHrs2A2Pa2qYPF8QW_/s400/DSC_1093.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Case in point. On the last day, yesterday, we went to the Icarus boulders and puttered around on a couple things that were absolutely baking in the sun before moving on to a nice shady V1 that we figured we could warm up on.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OW0NR_SQUAfiLtKi8dkNt_ENiW13mr_FbnJZOnpRvBYADPm_Vr71uwIZ2j3v8muuHAVc2M5DTVjkCaNh-FajMkjEhdmMy3N8qF0g4zGtclhF1Pq9R8VRAMJ9lj2skpfMGC2aBcO1rNjC/s1600/DSC_1404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OW0NR_SQUAfiLtKi8dkNt_ENiW13mr_FbnJZOnpRvBYADPm_Vr71uwIZ2j3v8muuHAVc2M5DTVjkCaNh-FajMkjEhdmMy3N8qF0g4zGtclhF1Pq9R8VRAMJ9lj2skpfMGC2aBcO1rNjC/s400/DSC_1404.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kevin........Baking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The three of us spent the next 45 minutes getting humbled like no other on that random V1 before Kevin finally figured out some tall beta for the crux and bushwhacked his way to the top.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5HeJhTRFv_qSSLdjc-JCGVFz3dYfFalk4jeYfZpghfqsm7FjUtLmSYszSrxnViewYh9ZAHYPLnXaCrx1T5thgqV4ayqHlWRh7ogF3Jn8RCbw_NOk4_V8C1RKnkKnAsliJ-5asPIeigIs0/s1600/DSC_1414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5HeJhTRFv_qSSLdjc-JCGVFz3dYfFalk4jeYfZpghfqsm7FjUtLmSYszSrxnViewYh9ZAHYPLnXaCrx1T5thgqV4ayqHlWRh7ogF3Jn8RCbw_NOk4_V8C1RKnkKnAsliJ-5asPIeigIs0/s400/DSC_1414.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bushwhacking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisrZN5ILzAMcupG-btPo-F4ZdSohqk5DNBdUOFd3p6gsCwgTzjchhH_P6RDUoSUC16dLj_a02fLuqElW2p8kVJnru8uuUiAKQ38hyphenhyphenonYo9u2KjauYX2MWqy5VQnbIcxF8oMjHFTPqjKYBB/s1600/DSC_1423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisrZN5ILzAMcupG-btPo-F4ZdSohqk5DNBdUOFd3p6gsCwgTzjchhH_P6RDUoSUC16dLj_a02fLuqElW2p8kVJnru8uuUiAKQ38hyphenhyphenonYo9u2KjauYX2MWqy5VQnbIcxF8oMjHFTPqjKYBB/s400/DSC_1423.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Skin and strength didn't seem to be much of an issue aside from the 3rd day for me and the 4th day for Katie. I only got one split, on the first day, which surprised the hell out of me considering the temps. <br />
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In all we spent most of our time on North but took one tour on East Mountain on our second day. The tour was a unique experience combining a bunch of different agendas, levels and personalities but our guide was awesome and I'd love to spend more time in the backcountry next time I go down.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCrQbgPS9YpixggMPoT0tk-mTASXxtM3tcawfgWVEBz-RHj9J-jPyoumPXD5m6a-hQs_Jgv7DbR2ohbZP9UdfFrKc_yU1RUcbtZpBRCB-kHXeOJMWyUfUutZSLTBPEbO8Lpy-DPgjKT0d/s1600/DSC_1387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCrQbgPS9YpixggMPoT0tk-mTASXxtM3tcawfgWVEBz-RHj9J-jPyoumPXD5m6a-hQs_Jgv7DbR2ohbZP9UdfFrKc_yU1RUcbtZpBRCB-kHXeOJMWyUfUutZSLTBPEbO8Lpy-DPgjKT0d/s400/DSC_1387.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We even saw a baby rattlesnake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
If there was anything that was disappointing for me, it was the surprising gap between the level of polish on the holds. It seemed that holds were either extremely sharp or polished to a sheen that even I haven't experienced before. Often times all on the same problem. That's what happens though when you get such a heavily used and popular area that's been on the forefront for almost a quarter of a century.<br />
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Out of everything we saw and heard while we were there, I have to say that the most interesting thing I saw was the broken Dam over on North Mountain. For whatever reason I was enthralled with it. Afterwards we took some time to talk to one of the rangers, Wanda I think, and she filled us in on some of the sordid history of Hueco.<br />
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I for one had no idea that a developer was attempting to build a resort there in the 60's. And that he wanted to put a hotel on top of North Mountain. It was incredible to hear about. Same with the guy who carved Mount Rushmore. He came to Hueco and wanted to carve a Mexican hero who's name I've long forgotten into the main side of North Mountain.<br />
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Can you imagine????<br />
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Amazing.<br />
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Both of us are looking forward to going back sometime soon. It's tough though cause there's so many areas to visit still like Joe's, Squamish, RMNP, etc. but Hueco is something special. The history, the iconic problems and the fact that it's very much the birthplace to the modern bouldering movement all make it something more than just another area. If you haven't been, I hope you get to go soon.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-5484736428379412232012-08-28T07:58:00.002-05:002012-08-28T07:58:40.069-05:00Lazier River And New VideoSo we tried to go floating on the Black River on Saturday with Sarah, Chris, Finley(their dog), Sam, Blake and Moose(our dog). We ended up getting a good 30-40 seconds of prime floating in during the 5 hour trek to the cars. <br />
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Turns out that in late August the water doesn't move too fast. We should've known what we were getting into when we all got in the water and Chris and Sarah started going backwards.<br />
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Either way it was a super fun day and was a great way to spend a 90 degree saturday. Watching Moose and Finley deal with the water in their own ways was entertaining enough.<br />
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In all we had 5 tubes, one two person raft with paddles, 6 orange life vest that Chris lashed into a raft, two dogs and a floating cooler that was shaped like a bobber but took on water immediately and didn't actually cool anything off.<br />
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At one point in the day Sam looked at us and said, "This is the biggest shit show I've ever been a part of". Couldn't have said it better myself.<br />
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That night though Chris made a giant fire and we played around with my camera. This is what we got.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWQ06p4tuBGqH7kEgaXj1KHrvc1ROCvXpn4Gx6-AmxZ0fjo0MSZmKpgMUgL8KvVq_bm9tVMKe_3XAtGGsEwWSKZlOIZLvxOAQH_nPDS48wCkGmhhIWy4fy9iuzeC7ZALh3ed9Zc6PCRFP/s1600/DSC_0958.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWQ06p4tuBGqH7kEgaXj1KHrvc1ROCvXpn4Gx6-AmxZ0fjo0MSZmKpgMUgL8KvVq_bm9tVMKe_3XAtGGsEwWSKZlOIZLvxOAQH_nPDS48wCkGmhhIWy4fy9iuzeC7ZALh3ed9Zc6PCRFP/s400/DSC_0958.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moose</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9iG7BveacIhyphenhyphennmoaiGMNCh5gtdycPI_nzu2EfZt5mV_OreGo0Lh2trTqtoP1_VgrL5PGjgd2qDuNqenoOnFA0H03f80PMxhIZG9yuAogwWgoDb_1rCgKAqNvawqTFMnxuu5WrT4qmUTys/s1600/DSC_0979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9iG7BveacIhyphenhyphennmoaiGMNCh5gtdycPI_nzu2EfZt5mV_OreGo0Lh2trTqtoP1_VgrL5PGjgd2qDuNqenoOnFA0H03f80PMxhIZG9yuAogwWgoDb_1rCgKAqNvawqTFMnxuu5WrT4qmUTys/s400/DSC_0979.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfHL6RsCYEsoRa559fGVg7LF1WNpW0H5Euf2kQU-1YFxnUC3QfSVRz-0SZQkUPak_olGkxrFcf4Rue-5qRCYuDbB_i4VpJVSiO8JM6U0Fa49lsL85nJ2JgH65RbZ0VGmwDMUhFgtMyLkh7/s1600/DSC_0984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfHL6RsCYEsoRa559fGVg7LF1WNpW0H5Euf2kQU-1YFxnUC3QfSVRz-0SZQkUPak_olGkxrFcf4Rue-5qRCYuDbB_i4VpJVSiO8JM6U0Fa49lsL85nJ2JgH65RbZ0VGmwDMUhFgtMyLkh7/s400/DSC_0984.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OCR2wvphT2EyMrHWra7a1P-SwwvaiBFXjnzeCxw79irMPaV4YpC96VVzcd-R9y25NKdyQLyEAs-nmSiuW6C2oMbutMsVYH1sSNs3F-LPzv5K4RyZTyJSuKz5OuM3tqFtOZXtEcfPW5l2/s1600/DSC_0987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OCR2wvphT2EyMrHWra7a1P-SwwvaiBFXjnzeCxw79irMPaV4YpC96VVzcd-R9y25NKdyQLyEAs-nmSiuW6C2oMbutMsVYH1sSNs3F-LPzv5K4RyZTyJSuKz5OuM3tqFtOZXtEcfPW5l2/s400/DSC_0987.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4uYSQdh18CegHdQ6ehEA3IXfBpy0kNH2OhlPBvhRIq9E9eoEUPjVWomhTYDAyCn-Qg3S-2uKjZlD34yI3McXiFpvmrlQonMVoGvZARX3rZga6bRB7zImoy_xBn4tePrEEIdWShL8gxdx/s1600/DSC_0990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4uYSQdh18CegHdQ6ehEA3IXfBpy0kNH2OhlPBvhRIq9E9eoEUPjVWomhTYDAyCn-Qg3S-2uKjZlD34yI3McXiFpvmrlQonMVoGvZARX3rZga6bRB7zImoy_xBn4tePrEEIdWShL8gxdx/s400/DSC_0990.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_WdIeEa8LZrDitSvFluKEiQdcU2dTiXjKOiOQqR4wWcjbk7ayYqv3voiaqpgok6JEcwXqwpBXMlxZFS1xhyKmg3UnxVMz82mZ7vBcySHdQGhKNwD6foatgQLlUXgoDpw7C3CwF-iEpM8q/s1600/DSC_0991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_WdIeEa8LZrDitSvFluKEiQdcU2dTiXjKOiOQqR4wWcjbk7ayYqv3voiaqpgok6JEcwXqwpBXMlxZFS1xhyKmg3UnxVMz82mZ7vBcySHdQGhKNwD6foatgQLlUXgoDpw7C3CwF-iEpM8q/s400/DSC_0991.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<br />
Then Chris tried to write SickyGnarGnar....semi successfully.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjF1_6dB8rHEnRE7vDQlhtpsLj6zU9nbQVpr7gLsSb2zUR7EdIzxTXkWKHOumcmSiYPO5hMcYB_06825jBxhKGJX-FZrEMG1k8LLRPYP63XzC7HfDQUNRWDt8MpdsmGKR7Zh4UjMk4u8Od/s1600/DSC_0992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjF1_6dB8rHEnRE7vDQlhtpsLj6zU9nbQVpr7gLsSb2zUR7EdIzxTXkWKHOumcmSiYPO5hMcYB_06825jBxhKGJX-FZrEMG1k8LLRPYP63XzC7HfDQUNRWDt8MpdsmGKR7Zh4UjMk4u8Od/s400/DSC_0992.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_uRzS-GwxsMRGAP8IeH66Q2PUWVcc7SpobbXdzqDa6gaV7z1fxZvZnhPHinzBYrUnp_FD3JA-wx1UAxVnwmYmGpPCp0QHyvzoqUqv-lO87156ZxntjsPtPZN7vCCwcwDlwhInQxnZEZAS/s1600/DSC_0993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_uRzS-GwxsMRGAP8IeH66Q2PUWVcc7SpobbXdzqDa6gaV7z1fxZvZnhPHinzBYrUnp_FD3JA-wx1UAxVnwmYmGpPCp0QHyvzoqUqv-lO87156ZxntjsPtPZN7vCCwcwDlwhInQxnZEZAS/s400/DSC_0993.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVUrljjWFHg-vofpW7F90_mMPeopf-a97vS27s7sc2fhYzKIdhXiCBt2ZRs8VBcPQghzJmduPWY_PwSDARLpQPp4IrXKtTwOhH-he5kF1TbXrt-S1VDYILFKBWgwGmqcEypMd7yNN_kQU/s1600/DSC_0995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVUrljjWFHg-vofpW7F90_mMPeopf-a97vS27s7sc2fhYzKIdhXiCBt2ZRs8VBcPQghzJmduPWY_PwSDARLpQPp4IrXKtTwOhH-he5kF1TbXrt-S1VDYILFKBWgwGmqcEypMd7yNN_kQU/s400/DSC_0995.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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He eventually got a good one though.<br />
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<br />
In other, actual climbing related news, we took Jugs out bouldering!!! And he liked it!!!!! May have helped that we got him on some highball cracks to start him out but eventually he tried Flatiron and you could see the switch turn inside him once he started to really figure out the beta. He was able to touch the second left hand crimp after a handful of tries and I've got no doubt that he'll be able to finish it up soon if he wants to.<br />
<br />
It's always fun to take people who haven't bouldered at the lake around and show them what we have. Jon has walked past the Flatiron possibly hundreds of times without trying it so it was cool to see him actually get on the problem and enjoy it. Remo and I were both able to repeat it and I must say, that is without a doubt one of my all time favorites. Truly love that boulder problem.<br />
<br />
Quote of the day was when Jugs topped out a 20-25 foot tall crack climb and as he walked off he asked Remo and I "Was that high?". Yes Jon. That was high.<br />
<br />
And finally, I've finished up my next video!!! See below and enjoy!!! I'm glad I was able to finish this one up before we left for Hueco as it leaves me clean to make another one down there. 4-5 days should be plenty to get a nice one together. Every time I use my camera I enjoy it more and I'm so happy I picked it up last year. <br />
<br />
Enjoy!!<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="225" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/48328872?color=ffffff" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="400"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/48328872">Devil's Lake Bouldering - Summerness</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user6560173">Steve Schultz</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-7670604634363249192012-08-24T14:08:00.002-05:002012-08-24T14:08:57.317-05:00BRFTwo things.<br />
<br />
1 - Good luck to Tony B for his birthday challenge tomorrow. It's incredibly ambitious(21 boulder problems, 21 routes and copious amounts of alcohol all in one day) and I wish him nothing but the best luck. The boulder problem circuit alone is proud, let alone adding a stout list of routes on top of that. The forecast is calling for 90 degrees and sunny. Tough draw bud.<br />
<br />
Boulders -<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">V1 Face at the north shore</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Big Bud</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Show Me The Kind</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Gay Gigolo</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"></span><br />
<div class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline;">
Slope Of Dadaism<br />
Pillar Of Contemporary Movement<br />
Venus Rising<br />
Sex & Chocolate<br />
Fat Pants<br />
The Flatiron<br />
Beautiful Soup<br />
Anchorpoint<br />
Intercourse Arete<br />
Trust Fund<br />
Pete's Pebble<br />
Magnum PI<br />
Dumpster Diving<br />
Jenga<br />
Super Slab<br />
Tunder Tighs<br />
Smooth Operator</div>
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<br />
Routes -<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">birthday crack</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">sometimes</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">birch tree</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"></span><br />
<div class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline;">
upper d<br />
congratulations<br />
brintons<br />
brintons direct<br />
berkeley<br />
chicago<br />
vaccilation<br />
full stop<br />
schizophrenia<br />
peter's<br />
callipigeanous<br />
cul de sac<br />
breakfast of champions<br />
cheatah<br />
push mi pull yu<br />
coatamundi<br />
foreplay<br />
charybdis</div>
<br />
<br />
2 - And secondly, it looks like a small group of us is heading up to Black River Falls to get away from Madison for a bit. I've never been but the plan is to camp/float/relax and maybe climb a bit.<br />
<br />
Any recommendations for must do's are more than welcome. I have 2 months of training to pack into exactly 1 weeks time before Katie and I head off to Hueco for a short, hot trip next Friday. Should be fun no matter what we get on.<br />
<br />
Hope everyone else has a good weekend and again, good luck Tony!!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-47691097713997529912012-08-22T12:35:00.000-05:002012-08-22T12:35:04.713-05:00The Man In The HatIn 2005 I spent my last summer in Mammoth working at the little climbing wall up at the resort. I got to work outside in beautiful weather and spent all day hauling little kids up a 20 foot pillar. <br />
<br />
I was young, 21 I think, and got to be around fellow climbers all day long talking shop and sharing stories. During less busy times we'd take take turns trying to 'free' the natural routes using beat to hell climbing shoes from the shoe bin. My go to shoe was a pair of purple Boreal Crux's.<br />
<br />
Looking back on it now, I laugh. Once again I didn't realize how lucky I was, but I don't think there was a better way to spend a summer. <br />
<br />
That's not to say there weren't downsides, a kid once peed his entire way down the zipline, but the good far outweighed the bad.<br />
<br />
My roommate Darren and I spent much of our free time in Tuolumne and we revered the legends of the area. Croft, Long, Bachar, Kauk, Clevenger, Yerian. We constantly wore out books written about them from reading them over and over. It absorbed our lives and we just couldn't help ourselves as we became more and more enamored with the stories. <br />
<br />
We'd constantly joke about going out and doing some proud, hard route only to promptly go and find the nearest 5.8 to sketch our way up. We were not talented climbers. I honestly can't count the number of times I motored up some pitch, unknowingly blowing straight past the belay station forcing myself to cobble together a sketch ball of an anchor. Darren always knew it was bad news if I came into view standing gingerly at the anchor, leaning in as far as I possibly could so as not to weight the anchor too much.<br />
<br />
Luckily we each had the same problem and we quickly learned not to complain, but instead went by the 'no fall' mantra. I couldn't imagine a better climbing partner for the alpine rock environment. We fit together so well.<br />
<br />
In the middle of the summer we had one of our first cloudy and semi rainy days up at the climbing wall. There weren't many people at the resort so my coworkers and I ended up spending much of our day messing around and talking more shit than usual.<br />
<br />
An hour or two before the end of the day two men and their sons came up to climb on the wall. One of the men was friends with my coworker Keith so we set them up with harnesses and three of them went to town. One of the guys stayed behind and hung out with us for a little bit. I knew he was a climber since he was wearing an climbing companies baseball hat and he looked familiar but I couldn't place him. I figured at first that he was someone I'd seen around town.<br />
<br />
We sat around and talked about the weather for a bit. Talked about a couple of local areas, gear and other random small talk. He asked me where I was from and what the local areas were like back in Wisconsin. <br />
<br />
We talked for maybe 30 minutes before his brother and their two sons came back over. It'd started to rain and they were going to take off. Keith came over to say goodbye to his buddy and as I was putting their harnesses and shoes away the man poked his head around the corner. He noticed the bucket of shoes, and the Crux's in particular.<br />
<br />
He laughed a bit and said quietly and unassumingly, "Been forever since I've seen a pair of those...I designed those things.".<br />
<br />
Immediately I got nervous. Instantly everything came together and I knew who the man was.<br />
<br />
The man was my idol. My hero. The person that I looked up to more than anyone else. The man in the hat was John Bachar.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo - Nathan Smith</td></tr>
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<br />
I immediately froze and transformed from a climber into a jabbering, stuttering, awestruck fanboy. We chatted for a few minutes, made plans to climb with Keith and he left. I was stunned.<br />
<br />
Later that summer we followed through with those plans to climb and I consider it to be one of the greatest honors of my climbing life to have spent time with the man. We laughed about my reaction after the fact and it was something he made fun of me for, every time I'd see him. <br />
<br />
He gave me some of my most cherished climbing related memories and for that, I'll be forever thankful. <br />
<br />
When I got home that first day and told Darren what had happened we both smiled and sat in our living room, almost in silence. As a young climber it was such a seminal moment for me that I truly didn't know how to react. <br />
<br />
Darren opened up one of our guidebooks, picked out a nearby 4-5 pitch 5.6 and we busted out to climb it, fully inspired by the days happenings. In proper fashion we missed multiple belays, didn't weight any anchors, got off route and topped out in the dark. As we sat on the top of the route packing our stuff we both just laughed at the absurdity of it. <br />
<br />
Darren looked at me and said all that he needed to, "Bachar woulda been back in town 2 hours ago".Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-34805984740913647852012-08-20T14:39:00.003-05:002012-08-20T19:11:15.512-05:00North Shore - East Bluff Talus<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<br />
Learned some stuff this weekend.<br />
<br />
1 - Chris and Sarah had a great wedding and it was extremely fun to be a part of it.<br />
<br />
2 - Riding in a stretch Escalade down Willy Street is an extremely enjoyable experience and I highly recommend it to everyone. Some of the glares we got were incredible.<br />
<br />
3 - I don't know how to tie a necktie, at all. (updated with the picture of the tie that I tried to tie. This was my 10th attempt or so and was leaps and bounds better than any of my other attempts...)<br />
<br />
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<br />
4 - Remo is a sandbagger. His problem Sunny and 60's is absolutely incredible and stands alone as one of the top problems in the park, regardless of grade. The holds are great, super comfy, the movement is engaging and the last move is exciting, but totally safe. All of this over a fairly nice landing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeremy on Sunny and 60's</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xhn0hs3G6mmVVDfzMkSkXCoq4IrOxyoRYVraO1TrHMMxumsDzI3i8bKB_47Z8K9h2yT2cxwU13mwhSvzqv0p3LG2A9bwq7hzvSGCoMbOhI1WhkE1Ga__EbEh5ExBIgqr5FSuUOrkTidV/s1600/DSC_0893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xhn0hs3G6mmVVDfzMkSkXCoq4IrOxyoRYVraO1TrHMMxumsDzI3i8bKB_47Z8K9h2yT2cxwU13mwhSvzqv0p3LG2A9bwq7hzvSGCoMbOhI1WhkE1Ga__EbEh5ExBIgqr5FSuUOrkTidV/s400/DSC_0893.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQb9vTCZT68hGn8Un8XmFGltgzbtmYFoOfmWjBXRoCu0oYfbnC1GUdRzc9DV9PFYNWT3UTkNAdcYJYzxB4hyphenhyphenbq7jgRC_dTd7RalyAmjfzh7To9BkBK7cuvepikNJq9K4AD2pgg6Htrma0/s1600/DSC_0879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQb9vTCZT68hGn8Un8XmFGltgzbtmYFoOfmWjBXRoCu0oYfbnC1GUdRzc9DV9PFYNWT3UTkNAdcYJYzxB4hyphenhyphenbq7jgRC_dTd7RalyAmjfzh7To9BkBK7cuvepikNJq9K4AD2pgg6Htrma0/s400/DSC_0879.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeremy looking terrified spotting Aaron on Sunny and 60's</td></tr>
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5 - Dobbe really, really likes problems that start in a hole. He grabbed everyone and showed us a potential line just down from Diamond in the Rough. It full on climbed out of a hole but the moves were fun and actually really unique. Aaron was able to snag the FA and Dobbe, Katie and myself followed close after. <br />
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The boulder itself is incredibly unique and starts on quartzite but actually finishes on some sandstone, using one of the most incredible jugs I've ever touched at the lake. Aaron called it "Party Hole" and it should weigh in around V4 or so.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAeCd-OSeawt6WWN1HXiwCnZWwZhu12Wbnv1wULl15wP_kqJ88hXBUCgoPp4_jMijEeVQDjAQx4kzLZ5zzSl3z7tUS-yL8FDTJFTpkdcfAl-lmdYuyvyqu8Xk413od2F8_lajbLIeBlhB3/s1600/photo-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAeCd-OSeawt6WWN1HXiwCnZWwZhu12Wbnv1wULl15wP_kqJ88hXBUCgoPp4_jMijEeVQDjAQx4kzLZ5zzSl3z7tUS-yL8FDTJFTpkdcfAl-lmdYuyvyqu8Xk413od2F8_lajbLIeBlhB3/s400/photo-2.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aaron at the start of Party Hole</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1PjwxXPmdKAkMy62H66W3BcPbBlBdpyHmBQX4iRhgV-OyVMdWuBsnIzGETuNvQlqXwLkLbd9jadzlpOc474ca5T7hrgf0OWZCxtDgJFf13fCjuiOuELQhHMKi8RzUiFxoFqtZK17MZDz/s1600/photo-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1PjwxXPmdKAkMy62H66W3BcPbBlBdpyHmBQX4iRhgV-OyVMdWuBsnIzGETuNvQlqXwLkLbd9jadzlpOc474ca5T7hrgf0OWZCxtDgJFf13fCjuiOuELQhHMKi8RzUiFxoFqtZK17MZDz/s400/photo-3.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Party Hole, go directly up from where Aaron is.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSDjc_LTPhDfgRE2MvUnvPm30g1sxX1Zt8hIdYjjm-IYHt3Oc91GRgnbEhB1aLUOsf0r1nWOMKqUT8OhhyLImQe4dQITxRd6G0SQj-U4KzrjhoCW795MO0yWzCmCcUWjqT2G_53tslJ4OM/s1600/photo-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSDjc_LTPhDfgRE2MvUnvPm30g1sxX1Zt8hIdYjjm-IYHt3Oc91GRgnbEhB1aLUOsf0r1nWOMKqUT8OhhyLImQe4dQITxRd6G0SQj-U4KzrjhoCW795MO0yWzCmCcUWjqT2G_53tslJ4OM/s400/photo-4.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The incredible jug at the top.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwqpTohh3OB8Pptyg4_2ef8EgZCxZ5UUdUZm42nqZmX3aALxsuxdpgU3n9t90LXv3nTWHk19w1f_0XzQc20ts4nSJvFApFs5nIBHcYAR0yjcw9SDd9cuohlAS-3fS2IgPEWSjqZqUYVTw9/s1600/DSC_0902.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwqpTohh3OB8Pptyg4_2ef8EgZCxZ5UUdUZm42nqZmX3aALxsuxdpgU3n9t90LXv3nTWHk19w1f_0XzQc20ts4nSJvFApFs5nIBHcYAR0yjcw9SDd9cuohlAS-3fS2IgPEWSjqZqUYVTw9/s400/DSC_0902.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dobbe looking at his other new line, You Only Fall Once</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisHSUvZJdMpUxrWN4lVQ4Nk6puYFx1HAco5-EJ9_VEgYl_bUwke60iBxCaalfmG3_YxeKjRAlKAoKNhdRLPvsuKcs87EivZSCXaqC8PVuzHf1hBeZs6bVZpyYIIBbxS-sP4SiYfngPM7g0/s1600/DSC_0936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisHSUvZJdMpUxrWN4lVQ4Nk6puYFx1HAco5-EJ9_VEgYl_bUwke60iBxCaalfmG3_YxeKjRAlKAoKNhdRLPvsuKcs87EivZSCXaqC8PVuzHf1hBeZs6bVZpyYIIBbxS-sP4SiYfngPM7g0/s400/DSC_0936.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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6 - There's an incredible amount of rock up by Sunny and 60's and I'm very excited to go back. Katie put up a short but cool V3 up there that she named 80 and Rainy. Jeremy finished it up soon after as well. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8YQqtnyptIQmJAyOc1a1vdyr929g35L8jVA2cYQLKCTtTxoDRZfcPlZwQGatF4qTkWw4_40yagC36c7xpJeJjlL8JmLxmi_KueohnFmRABgqaGNd_n9ZckbZHPqHIlV5WmPC3FiCR8cGD/s1600/DSC_0928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8YQqtnyptIQmJAyOc1a1vdyr929g35L8jVA2cYQLKCTtTxoDRZfcPlZwQGatF4qTkWw4_40yagC36c7xpJeJjlL8JmLxmi_KueohnFmRABgqaGNd_n9ZckbZHPqHIlV5WmPC3FiCR8cGD/s400/DSC_0928.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">80 and Rainy starts on the left side of the face, just above the roof</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbv2oZKxZt1WU2e3BjQCDH3DwhMUREr-z4CNZsUlqAWDxkzE0G1KAYHQ50oCwWkJVtnEi0f-9WNi9NDq7ZUi22L8jBk2o1jnnESMMHDoXVfjfZcNkELvpWZ0e3nP76zvxBnlAGyO0YMdD/s1600/DSC_0929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbv2oZKxZt1WU2e3BjQCDH3DwhMUREr-z4CNZsUlqAWDxkzE0G1KAYHQ50oCwWkJVtnEi0f-9WNi9NDq7ZUi22L8jBk2o1jnnESMMHDoXVfjfZcNkELvpWZ0e3nP76zvxBnlAGyO0YMdD/s400/DSC_0929.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another large, impressive boulder that needs lots of landing work</td></tr>
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<br />
On the boulder with 80 and Rainy there should be a number of other short problems and even a little roof climb or two. Again, many boulders need to be moved and landings need some work but once cleaned up it should be a very good area.<br />
<br />
7 - Remo posted a picture a while ago that didn't gain much interest but after seeing it up close and dubbing it the 'Cra Cra Project' I can say with confidence that once the landing is fixed up it should be very cool and very proud. It's simple, about 3 moves, but steep and singular line out of an impressive overhang. Excited to try it eventually.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZ2-Yq8TWrgfjMRuVjKyz1XnMdBMZD5JkerWTUYQCYIWLpS_6qHWfTVkouyymOl2uZlVMR1dKmB4j8qvpMVo-FJYmx1DvNJ51xTioBK-7NVfNmZIsAZtuYJswhoZmmd-C27VuSa58M0nH/s1600/DSC_0912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZ2-Yq8TWrgfjMRuVjKyz1XnMdBMZD5JkerWTUYQCYIWLpS_6qHWfTVkouyymOl2uZlVMR1dKmB4j8qvpMVo-FJYmx1DvNJ51xTioBK-7NVfNmZIsAZtuYJswhoZmmd-C27VuSa58M0nH/s400/DSC_0912.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cra Cra project</td></tr>
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8 - Aaron is awesome.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIg8wuw1pakf9K8byi3njoVqSAnxmLlTxgNX4dCQdf1lZIMDsxaPRhblNevrpKJ1gW5tx3W1LM1AwU6iTQfsN9gQEoUt86OC1DP8NweYOzyP7HX3-4NznyH3clk2f4Z7RQpx7cVgfhECTL/s1600/DSC_0904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIg8wuw1pakf9K8byi3njoVqSAnxmLlTxgNX4dCQdf1lZIMDsxaPRhblNevrpKJ1gW5tx3W1LM1AwU6iTQfsN9gQEoUt86OC1DP8NweYOzyP7HX3-4NznyH3clk2f4Z7RQpx7cVgfhECTL/s400/DSC_0904.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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Hope everyone else had a good weekend. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-29400475415212518612012-08-18T11:13:00.001-05:002012-08-18T11:13:36.009-05:00Chris N SarahCongrats guys. Today should be fun...<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-27126073179172761022012-08-15T12:16:00.000-05:002012-08-15T12:16:50.842-05:00UpdatesGotta say, I didn't write pretty much all summer and I don't think I missed a whole lot of what went on at the lake. It was so hot out that it was probably the worst summer to be a climber at the lake. Now that things are cooling off a bit it seems that more people are getting out.<br />
<br />
Just last week both Sam and Blake were able to wrap up Magnum PI and the week prior Kevin Baker did it as well. Magnum is still one of my favorites on the Dog Walk boulder so it's nice to see it get some traffic. <br />
<br />
I'd tried magnum, without success, a couple months before Dobbe and crew were able to figure it out. I was extremely dismissive of the line and continually talked about how contrived and terrible it was/would be. I like to think that I was just mad I couldn't do the problem! I'm very glad that I was wrong on that one. <br />
<br />
Ian has also done a number of nice looking lines up on the east bluff. From what I can tell the area lies just past the Horse Ramparts Bouldering and his line 'Don't F With The Bees' looks like a really fun addition. Looking forward to trying it once it gets cool enough that the bees aren't a problem!<br />
<br />
Here's to hoping for another good fall season!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-29421316368025159412012-08-13T17:44:00.000-05:002012-08-13T17:44:20.931-05:00Taylors Falls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Katie in the middle of the Cave Traverse</td></tr>
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Woah, what's that???? A climbing picture?!? On the blogsite?!?!?!?!?! Shomygosh...<br />
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Yep, Katie had her birthday on Saturday and we went up to Taylors Falls and stayed with Nic for the night at his house in White Bear Lake. It was super fun and even though Katie didn't manage a send of the Cave Traverse, it was absurdly nice to just get outside and climb on rock for a bit.<br />
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Katie looked incredibly strong and repeated all the moves rather quickly but unfortunately a kneepad snafu ended up making a normally pedestrian move quite a bit harder. She had a number of good links but her energy ran out before it all clicked together.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGRqN2L3TWeWHdZpasbImqLNvdzxAx9jTddPLE1_YJJKEvZL08wOuHpesF6KBO1iQia8spDyiEOx9i9dWScR8dAqGeJELXSCICa9wOO9cX18VKQMDVMRA1XzEyIhLVCpVp7P0yLCL2RSKl/s1600/DSC_0844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGRqN2L3TWeWHdZpasbImqLNvdzxAx9jTddPLE1_YJJKEvZL08wOuHpesF6KBO1iQia8spDyiEOx9i9dWScR8dAqGeJELXSCICa9wOO9cX18VKQMDVMRA1XzEyIhLVCpVp7P0yLCL2RSKl/s400/DSC_0844.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Katie towards the end of the Cave Traverse</td></tr>
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As for myself, I puttered around on some of the warmups and my finger felt good for the first time in a while. Granted I didn't grab anything too small and I could still feel how tender it was, but positive movement is a very good thing.<br />
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After we were done climbing we drove over to Nic and Molly's house (which is awesome) and hung out with them and some other friends. We met new people, had fun with others we hadn't seen in a while and had a good time.<br />
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I got slightly drunk and started drinking bourbon again, Nic got really drunk and almost started his lawn on fire. The night was a success.<br />
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Things seem to be turning for the positive recently. Started climbing again last week, started running again a couple weeks ago, trips are being planned and I can feel the energy returning a bit. Are we in for another good fall????? Here's to hoping.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-75741407952486799472012-07-31T14:24:00.002-05:002012-07-31T14:24:16.199-05:00FireKatie just posted a picture on bookface of a forest fire on the West Bluff. Texted back and forth with her for a bit and it sounds like it's "long and skinny" and that it could be pretty bad. Really hoping that it doesn't get out of hand but I can only imagine that fighting a fire in the talus would be well beyond heinous. <br />
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If anyone finds anymore info or knows anything please post it up.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-87387765565053349642012-07-26T09:03:00.001-05:002012-07-26T09:03:21.332-05:00Unicorn SpottingI did it. I finally found one in real life. Honestly never thought it would happen but yesterday the stars aligned and the clouds parted over Adel, Iowa. <br />
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I've now seen, in the flesh, a guy wearing a 'wolf howling at the moon' t shirt! It was magnificent. So happy I stopped at subway. Check out the mediocre picture to see for yourselves!<br />
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After I was done I walked outside and a dune buggy had parked next to me. I may have very well taken a wrong turn and ended up in Canada. <div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7nA5sbtrhKR-Fw6kUBtR3ORAIyHe_ICoeAvDX4ANyhZFFCoPqyNkqPIVRK1vlh6edkx5PrtocbyVhrO7R4Pa38FcIEHna8HHJIBA8CUSxiJWlZLxcmjX0TNjCkHHAyA1Jx1jIm7omw8o/s640/blogger-image--797111926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7nA5sbtrhKR-Fw6kUBtR3ORAIyHe_ICoeAvDX4ANyhZFFCoPqyNkqPIVRK1vlh6edkx5PrtocbyVhrO7R4Pa38FcIEHna8HHJIBA8CUSxiJWlZLxcmjX0TNjCkHHAyA1Jx1jIm7omw8o/s640/blogger-image--797111926.jpg" /></a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-23873198734224890942012-07-19T09:28:00.000-05:002012-07-19T09:28:10.932-05:00Action Park<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Scorpion's Tail</i></div>
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Back on the Fourth of July a group of us went up to Noah's Ark for the day. It was 105 out that day. It was amazing.<br />
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First ride of the day though was the Scorpions Tail. Aaron kept telling us about how awesome it is. How you get in a tube, they lock you in, do a three second count down and then the floor drops out.<br />
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It was terrifying and fantastic but oddly like taking a good whipper. In the back of your mind though you know you're not actually going to get hurt. Who gets hurt at a water park anyways??<br />
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Aside from Katie coming quite close to not making it around the loop we all made it through fine and had a nice time.<br />
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Fast forward to last week at a local tradeshow and I was hanging out with a coworker and a former coworker, talking about water park rides. I started talking about how badass Scorpion's Tail was and we watched a couple videos.<br />
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Dan and I kept talking but Pete got all quiet and started looking something up on his laptop. After a few minutes he smiled and turned his laptop towards us, showing us this:<br />
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How fucked up is that????
This was an actual ride at a place called Action Park in New Jersey. It was one of the first waterparks in the US and the park as a whole resulted in at least 7 deaths, if not more.<br />
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It's worth a Google and ten minutes of your time.<br />
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Anyone actually been climbing??Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-80933051300692090912012-07-13T12:09:00.002-05:002012-07-13T12:11:01.208-05:00VideoLast fall/winter there was a video going around from a ski flick called "<a href="http://sickygnargnar.blogspot.com/2011/12/allican.html">All.I.Can.</a>" and we talked a bit about how climbing inherently makes things tough to vary from the traditional format. I saw this little video come up this morning and I thought it was kind of cool and worth sharing on here. <br />
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<iframe width="400" height="225" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/1DaOvaImS10" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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If nothing else it's a little bit different of a take on what we can do in the medium and even if it's a promo, it kept my attention throughout.<br />
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I'd be curious what others think of it.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2465688298202864084.post-83327879046423455382012-07-07T09:58:00.001-05:002012-07-07T09:58:34.467-05:00The Ebb And The FlowI've often talked about motivation and the constant changes it seems to take on. The past few years at the lake have been as perfect an example as could be. It's been incredibly fun to watch the area as it grows and goes through the initial pains of any place that expands at a rapid pace. <br />
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As for this season itself, it's been remarkably positive and I started out the year with as much motivation to find new problems and areas than I have in a long time. A nice byproduct of that was seeing guys like Ian turn the Smooth Operator area into a true destination with multiple high quality lines. Big Red is an absolutely stunning line and many of the other problems over there are of very high quality as well. <br />
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I'll be the first to admit I've been as hard on Ian as anyone else when it comes to "variations". Its made me extremely happy to watch him from the outside as he developed this particular area because a good majority of the lines were true, independent lines of good quality. Almost singlehandedly he turned that area from one with 2-3 problems and 2 extremely difficult projects into a diverse, concentrated destination that everyone has enjoyed with an easy approach.<br />
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Sometimes it just takes someone with an non-discriminating eye to turn a place that was overlooked into an area of quality. Peter, Chris, Sarah, Tony, Katie and myself(among many others I'm sure) all walked through the area saying the same thing. <br />
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"Couple things, but nothing amazing."<br />
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Turns out we were wrong.<br />
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On a more personal note, while the year started out great I've had a bit of a rough run since and my motivation has waned a good amount. As of right now I've had one month this year without an injury of some sort and I'm taking some more time off at the moment in the hopes of healing up a bum finger. <br />
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What's been amazing to me though is that I'm not frustrated at all. I'm actually enjoying some time off. Its allowed me to focus on work a little more and I'm hoping it'll let my body heal a little bit. <br />
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The timing couldn't have been any better with recent temps consistently hitting the 100's and with next weeks "cold front" bringing us highs in the low 90's. Gonna be chilly. Might have to put a sweater on.<br />
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Motivation is a fickle beast that I wrestle with often. Thankfully this time around I hit my motivation low as things aligned for me otherwise. This feels very different from last summer when I was forced to the sidelines. I could very well climb through the finger injury and it might go away at some point but being able to make that decision on my own has made the biggest difference to my mindset. <br />
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Instead of sweating my ass off and climbing poorly, I get to play badminton and drink. I think I'm gonna go pro.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11259537267716268828noreply@blogger.com4