Friday, January 13, 2012

Predictions Recap

Well, even if I didn't climb much this past year I kinda nailed the predictions.

1 - Alpine Club - Said it'd be done 3 times. It got done 5 times if I'm remembering everybody. Ian, Martin, Peter, Katie and Jeremy. If I'm missing anybody I apologize but this was done much more than I thought it would and that's including Aaron coming agonizingly close on it as well. I feel pretty strongly that he would have done it had he invested more time in it.

For all that went on this year with Alpine Club, it continues to endure as THE line on the boulder. If I learned one thing, it was that the good problems float to the top of the heap and the bad problems sink to the bottom.

Alpine Club will always be Alpine Club, no matter how many other problems show up on the boulder. I could go on for a long time about this subject but I'll leave it at that.

2 - Beautiful Soup - Said 5 times. If I'm remembering right, this one was done 4 times with Brian, Tony, Eggy and Peter finishing it up. How this problem was done less than Alpine Club is beyond me. Maybe I'm missing something but I feel like this is a must do for the grade at the lake.

I understand that it's sharp, but other than that it's pretty amazing. I'd encourage anyone who's even trying some of the DL 7's to hop on this a bit. It has an obvious start, dynamic moves, a manageable but slightly exciting landing and an engaging final couple of moves.

Still one of my all time favorites at the lake.

3 - Keymaker - Said it'd be done twice. Chris and Peter finished this up for a beginning and an end of season send, respectively. I'm really glad that each was able to finish it and I look forward to hopping back on it again this spring.

Seeing the renewed interest in the line this year was really enjoyable. Multiple people hopped on a rope to check it out and see what the upper crimps were all about. I remember Katie telling me about one day that she was up at Anchorpoint and looked to her left only to see Runnells on a rope, on Keymaker. That made me really happy.

4 - Moj - I said it'd be done 2 times. If I remember right it was done 4 times, including an impressive flash by Ian. Chris, Jeremy and Peter also did the problem and I may have forgotten someone.

I was personally really happy to see it get so much traffic this year. It's a problem that's close to my heart and I'm always glad when it gets done.

I also thought it was interesting that in the fall it received the honor of being the only problem that Ian has ever downgraded in his entire life. Just messing with you Ian! Moj is interesting in that it seems to get noticeably easier once you've done it and figured out the momentum. RV notably did it multiple times the day he first climbed it and I've been able to repeat the crux moves a number of times since the FA.

Any way about it, it's a great problem on fun holds. I just hope the juglet doesn't break.

5 - Greatest Show - 1 time. It was nice knowing you Mr. Pebble, we hardly knew ye.

Still can't believe that fucker broke.

6 - Tunder Tighs - Twice. Well. Lets see if I can remember who all did this thing. I'll try it in order but please let me know if I missed anyone. Ian, Remo, Aaron, Esser, Myself, Eggy, Runnells, Tony, Peter and Pat. I think that's everyone as far as I know. I'm sure others may have done it as well and I just don't know.

I think it's safe to say that this problem surprised most everyone and turned into something of a neo-classic. Powerful, big moves on comfy holds that goes up one of the more imposing boulders in the park seemed to be a recipe for popularity. Who knew? In fact I can't think of one person that didn't love the problem after climbing on it, the moves are that fun and the holds are that unique.

While the landing is less than ideal, it's miles better than what it was and is extremely manageable at the moment. To have a problem go from being unrepeated to getting done 10 plus times in a matter of months speaks volumes for its quality.

7 - Sandstone Violence - Said it'd get done 4 times. Wrong on this one, same as greatest show. Only one time, not including Eggy's 23 laps per year. Maybe someday Esser's footage will make it out there. It's pretty great.

8-10 - I'm gonna leave these alone. All I want to say is that I think it's great that there's a new group of people out there establishing new problems. I hope that the bug hits you guys harder this year and you venture a bit out of your comfort zone in search of new areas. Development can so much more than finding some sick project that'll get you another double digit tick.

I think the area that Peter found, Loompa Land, is a perfect example of this. I would absolutely love to see more areas like that pop up this year.

As for the lady goals....the ladies just didn't quite step up to the plate like the boys did.

Jenga - Said 3 times. Done once.
Moj - Said it'd get its FFA. No dice.
Moostache - Said 4 times. Done once. Nice work Sarah!
Magnum - Said 4 times. Done once. Sarah and Ellen both came staggeringly close to finishing it though. Proud efforts.
Massive Vertigo - Said 3 times. Done once.
Anchorpoint - Said 2 times. If I count Katie's re-send after the hold broke then we got it thanks to Sam's late season ascent. Good work ladies.
Alpine Club - Said once. Done once. Still proud of Katie for this one.
Venus Rising - Said once. Done Once. Katie came out of nowhere for this. I had my money on Ellen.
Put up a V4 or harder - Done. Wrestling the Bear - Good work Katie.
Found a new area - Doneish. We can kinda count the area below Perfect Medium as a new area since nothing had really been put up there. I think there's still some things over that way left to be found.

So that's that. Here's to another hopefully great season. As always, I really hope no one takes anything I say seriously, at all.


  1. I never climbed Beautiful Soup.

    1. Eh, I guess I just remember making fun of you for putting it on your 8a card and you saying you finished it up. Guess it was only done 3 times.