Monday, May 3, 2010


Three things happened recently that people should know about.

1 - RV got all Sicky Gnar Gnar and sent Massive Vertigo. Did he use a Kneebar Pad? No. He tied a sock around his thigh. Is his ascent better or worse than others? Does his count? Will he get full points? Did he eat one scone or two scones before sending? Did his shirt dab on the pad? Is he a punter?

If you want to debate any of these subjects go away. Don't want to hear it. Well, unless it's pastry talk. Then I want to hear it.

Before the sock



2 - Greatest Show is clean. Look.

Forgot to close my pad.  Oops.

There ya have it

We spent a good three hours on a rope cleaning that rig. I think I've got the upper sequence figured out but it's pretty hard. The arete looks damn hard as well. Damn hard.

3 - Mr. Eggnuts is good at playing tourist. Touche' sir.

After we finished cleaning Greatest Show we were walking along the trail when a guy with his family asked us what the pads were for. "Them fer climbin'??" Then the masked man politely asked "Or are those fer sleepin' on??". I gave him a quick glance and continued to stare at the ground.

Then I heard "How's it going Steve?". It was Chris. Well Played. We had a nice chat while the bugs circled us. Found out he did Axiom of Arete Aesthetics which is awesome! It's probably been close to a decade since that problem has been done. Proud.

Good weekend. Sounds like 5-6 different groups up at the lake. All at different areas. Makes me happy to see that. We saw Tony and Sarah at the ferry and they were headed up to Monolith. Guys, anything go down???

That's all for now.


  1. sound like a whole lot of fun! Congrats to RV!

    did you guys try either of the two problems on the prow boulder that evening after you called me?

  2. Didn't really try it too much. We tried the 5/6 a bit but were pretty uninspired by the landing on both that and the prow. Too bad really.

  3. Steve as you know I never said I did Axiom. :)

    Pretty funny, so swilling a beer and watching Luke splash in the river off the East Bluff Woods trail, I see three pad-people walking towards us. So as they near I say in my best drawl, "What're them pads fer? Are they for sleepin?" And RV and Steve just keep on walking, heads down. Katie, on the other hand, kind of shudders, but says in a nice voice, "They're for climbing" while also not breaking stride. Too funny.

    Good on RV!!! Nice job man. Yes, the landing on both of those problems at The Prow sucks. It's really too bad. ce

  4. Good weekend for the pad people, good to see. Wow Steve, that topout is clean!! Good work man. Wish I could have made it out, bumbed. Regardless, psyched for everyone that got out.
    Peace and sending,

  5. Dear Remo,

    `the pad people'?! Who you calling pad people. That sounds awfully close to `this queue isn't for pad people' or `pad people ride at the back of the bus'. What the hell man? I resent that shit.


    Dear Blog owner,

    I resent not being allowed to hate on the sock or the shirt dab. If his shirt so much as even looked like it hit the pad, well no points then, the molecules being close to the pad could have helped in the send. Also, a sock is not approved gear. In fact all sending should happen only in shoes and whitey tighties. It doesn't count otherwise.

  6. To bad you didn't try it more. after the first move 'full moon rising' is pretty much a flat landing. As for the prow, i didnt think the landing was to bad until perhaps the top. We are climbing in a talus field folks, there arent going to be many landings like Alpine Club. lol.

  7. I agree that full moon isn't bad after the first move but i think we just weren't psyched on it for whatever reason. With the prow I would have more than likely just exited right after the first move. Seemed kinda contrived to come back down only to go left over a worse landing. Just my thoughts.

    As for talus landings, there are lots of good problems over better landings than that one. Didn't really want to risk anything that day I guess. Maybe someday, right??

  8. Oh, and mister DB Robinson, I would like to formally announce that YOU SUCK, sir.

  9. Interesting. Yeah i guess I wouldn't see why it couldnt have the 2 versions. straight up and left. Especially at a place like the lake where there are a lot more contrived problems then what that would end up being. It's not my problem so I have no attachment to it either way but thought the movement was rad and thought you would dig it is all. Speaking of contrivances, it looks like you guys did an awesome job cleaning greatest show :-) Really psyched to try that one of these days. Hopefully before it becomes covered in shit again!

  10. Yeah, I can definitely see having two variations. One truly horrifying and another just merely scary. Hah.

    Greatest Show is good right now but man that much time in a harness bruised our hips. Shoulda grabbed a work and rescue harness from work! I'm curious how it's going to hold up this summer. It was amazing how many holds we were finding! We'd pull something out and there'd be this amazing 2 finger pocket or an awesome undercling. It was crazy!!

  11. Well, sweaty, after I talked to Steve and crew I went and took a big poop on the top of Greatest Show, so you're out of luck. ce

  12. I managed to finish off sex and chocolate, but venus rising is still eluding me.

  13. Yeah seriously, that thing is a big question mark for me. ce

  14. Nice work Tony!! Glad we caught you guys! Sex and Chocolate is an interesting one....

  15. Dying for the weekend update my friend! ce

  16. arent we always eggnuts. we are die hard gnar gnar followers. then i get a weekend update and I am dying for a mid-week update all the way until the next weeks weekend update. lol