Wednesday, May 19, 2010


In early 2004 I saw an ad that stated:

"The REVOLUTION will not be televised. May 1 2004."

Revolution climbing was born.

I just saw this. VERY interested to see what comes of it. Would love to see some of the old shapes come back.

Tahoe is rad. Whitewater rafting was fun, albeit a bit slow up until the last 15 minutes or so. Pete found out who his roommate is. Max King. I'm sure that name means jack shit to you guys but Max is one of the premier trail runners in the world. It'd be like having Nalle Hukkataival as a roomie. Pete, being a rather talented runner, will get made fun of a lot for this. A LOT.

I find it hilarious as Max is on the new Montrail workbook for Spring 11. F'ing hilarious.

On a "local" note, RV sent Sex and Chocolate. Nice work. Paul d also did the move on Alpine Club sweaty's way. As I've never tried this move that way I find it pretty interesting. I do feel like this is a very body specific move and am interested in trying it this way. That said, I still want to do the problem the traditional way. I feel like it's a proper testpiece and this beta only makes me want to do it the original way even more.

I do not merely want to get up that wall, I want to do it the way Peter saw it. I see it as a proper step forward for me and a true test of my ability. This problem means a lot to me and I look forward to standing on top of it with a smile.


  1. Hats off to Paul D and Sweaty sticking the move that way. I tried it yesterday and it felt miles harder than the `usual way'. Bear in mind I haven't even stuck the move the usual way.

    I am going to go up early tomorrow morning again. Going to try and get on Perfect Medium before the one hold turns to gloop.

    Any takers?

  2. Dab on sweaty's Beta, like knee pads on Massive


  3. Anyone out tonight? I get off work ~4:30 and will be at the Lake by 4:45. Open to going anywhere. ce

  4. hahaha. Thanks Nic. Suppose I deserve that from you :-) As for the beta. I have a couple of thoughts. I'm curious if by 'traditional way' you are planning on going left hand to the gaston that I grab with my right hand? Since that is the way, as I understand it, that it was originally done? I know for sure that that's how desalvo did it. #2 when you say it is body type specific, isnt the way anyone climbs any problem, body type specific? #3 I thought the coolest thing about the problem was that it has been done 3 ways. None of which seemingly easier than any of the others. In fact, lots of people have tried it my way and have thought it was lots harder (Nic dab comment asside, he was convinced that I should take v10 for it). #4 It is often in outdoor climbing that people climb things completely different. sometimes it's miles easier beta, kneepad on M.V. and sometimes it is just a different sequence, with a comparable result.

    Isnt bouldering always about just getting up the wall?

  5. also, congrats to the climber formerlly known as the punter! Well done RV!

  6. Maybe this is a logical extension to the prior topic on "That Hold is Off". Except Alpine Club has an obvious start hold, goes straight up, and tops out. A perfect line. (Some might argue it's height would not allow for 4 stars, nudge nudge), but not me. I can't comment since I have yet to give much effort. In this instance though, it's the beta sequence in question. Maybe it should be "That Sequence is Off" Haha. Interesting thoughts. Maybe I will have to head there tonight. Glad this came up. ce

  7. ALSO!!! so excited about pusher. Every gyms favorite classics. How many times per re-set have you reminded or been reminded to set these holds down because they can chip and 'can't be replaced'. lol. now they will be able to be replaced? Sweet!

    It's funny that the revolution thing really didn't take off.? Even though they had product in REI, ect. didnt really seem to take off. at least around gyms in chicago that is...

  8. Sweaty, no real disrespect to how you did it. Not at all what I meant by what I said.

    I know DeSalvo went up left hand to the gaston edge. I also know that there are three different ways to do this boulder. What I also know is that I'm really bad at that move right now and it's a move that I want to be able to do eventually. This is 100% a personal thing and it just so happens to be with a problem that means a lot to me.

    I don't merely want to "get up the wall". I want to be able to do that move.

    Again, I want to reiterate that for me, this is a personal challenge and not just a boulder problem I want to climb. I can't do the move right now. I want to do that move.

    Hope that makes sense and I could really care less about the grade.

  9. I totally get wanting to do that particular movement. and obviously know that you wouldn't say anything to purposefully upset me or anything like that. and I'm for sure not upset, at all. I think it was just the wording you chose that made me feel the need to pipe up with my thoughts. kinda sounded like you were saying it was less valid or something. No big deal. what a super problem.

  10. Steve,

    Your comment reminds me of a story I heard about Sam Edwards (Tanzanian first ascentionist of Goldfish Trombone in the Happies, V14) from my friend Jacob.

    It was a crisp December day, and Jacob was hiking around Camp 4 with nearly nobody around. He heard some noise from the Dominator boulder, and walked over to see Sam Edwards working on Dominator (Jerry Moffat first ascentionist). Sam's a big guy, apparently, a rugby style beefy body; with every attempt he'd let out a furor of screaming, throwing for a sloping single pad edge with all his force and might. Jacob says he's never seen anyone apply so much power with each attempt.

    At the time, Tommy Caldwell had recently used heel hook beta to change "the move" to a more static method than Jerry's leg-cutting swinging power move. (See Ron Kauk's Ascending Rhythm to see Jerry do the problem.)

    Here's Kevin Jorgeson doing the sit start, with the heel hook beta.

    Jacob said hi, and asked Sam about his beta/method. Sam said that he knew about the heel hook beta, but wanted to do the problem the way Jerry did it.

    He promptly pulled on, and while throwing for the sloper edge, tore a huge flapper out of the distal tip of his middle finger, from pulling so hard. Imaging tearing of the end of your finger tip, on a 40 degree overhanging wall, on a sloper, from pulling so hard. Holy hell.

    This is one of the most amazing stories I've ever heard.

    The only bummer is, when I finally make it on vacation back to try these rad Devils Lake problems, I'm gonna have to try to find out what the "FA beta" is. I personally think that people can do problems however they want. Beautiful lines are begging to be climbed because they are beautiful: however difficult they may be. However, there is, I think, some value in paying homage to and reliving the first ascentionist's experience, especially if a particular problem has a personal value that is more than just a number.


    PS- Dab on Nic's Mom.

  11. PPS-- Still waiting for Pusher holds to come back. Please please please.

  12. First off, LuAnne is a Saint (she was a pastor, now a school teacher) and if anyone brings her into this I will 1st kill you and 2nd tell on you.

    I agree with Steve,

    Doing something the way it was done (such as Left of Lloyds) makes it cool and if it is your own personal battle that is fine. I have a list of some of my current "personal battle" projects.

    1. Ametuer
    the way Jim did it.
    2. Greatest Show On Earth (FOR REAL THIS TIME)
    3. Humpdy, Hump
    a 5 foot tall v8/11 at taylors falls that has been done 2 times (Jim M/ Stephan B). If it was anywhere else I would not even put on my shoes but it is here and I have not done it.

    With that said I also think Sweaty's way is way fucking harder, My shoulder would fall off if I did it that way,I think my way is the easiest (physically)to do.


    When is someone going to do beautiful soup direct? Or Black Sheep? Or something else hard? Wisco is not keeping up with MN this season.


  13. p.s.

    Push only had a few good sets, it is all hype with them. At the time Pusher was the best... Now? Not so much.


  14. Good comments nic. I'm sure your mom is very nice.

    Kind of agree about pusher. they had some good stuff but a couple of their big holds made them what they are. Lots of hype but i'm still curious what they'll bring back to the table. Also wonder if revolution is gonna stay around.

  15. AC has been done at least 4 ways -
    1. Traditional right hand to left gaston (PD FA)
    2. Traditional right hand moving left to sloper edge (BS first, I think)
    3. Traditional right hand and then going left hand all the way to the edge on the lip (Mike S.)
    4. The bump way (Sweaty)


  16. going all the way to the lip is hard! i tried that a ton. Jason, I feel left out because my method does not say traditional in front of it. Is that because I have to have a 4 to 5 year waiting period before getting that title?

    Steve, which of these 'traditional' ways are you planning? or are you just planning on doing all of them? that would be a neat little feat in itself. and past that doing all 4 in succession, that might be one for nic and LuAnne to do.

  17. I'm sorry Sweaty, no slight intended, just we have all seen video of you doing it so there is not much need to be more accurate. The "traditional" was just meant to cut down on confusion, not to imply validity, though perhaps that was not necessary as every way so far has used the same right hand...

    I understand wanting to do it for personal reasons one way vs another (sorta...), but breaking it down further seems a bit excessive, all ways seem quite hard, and what is really cool is all ways seems to come in around the same grade, just different ways suit different people - kinda cool.

    Anyways, all ways are quite cool and brick hard, including the "traditional" Sweaty way. *hugs*

  18. After giving this some goes last night, I can see wanting to do it in one certain way, the movement is pretty different for the different beta. Cool to know it's gone 4 different ways. I kept looking for the secret knee bar but came up emptyhanded. Sweaty, you're always classic to me. ce

  19. haha. totally just giving you shit Jason! Bummer you're not around here anymore it would be great to boulder with you one day.

    I agree that one of the coolest things about the problem is there is so many ways to do it and all of which are around the same difficulty. A rare thing for sure.

    p.s. can we call refer to kneebars as 'LuAnne's' from now on please. i.e. That LuAnne is totally invalid. or Try to find a LuAnne in there somewhere to make the move easier. or I'm gonna tie this old sock on so I can drop a gay LuAnne in that crevice.

  20. I would like to do Alpine Club any bloody way. Heck, if someone finds knee bar, figure four, feet first beta that makes it even a smidgeon easier I am willing to try it. That problem kicks my ass.

    @Mr Pants: I am still a punter. I got smacked around by Perfect Medium today.

  21. bogus... did you try to find a LuAnne?

  22. Mr Pants: Don't bring me in to this thing between you and Nic. He's already declared that he would kill me for a snickers bar.

  23. snickers are delicious... i can understand the rationale

  24. Chocolate cake is better!

    Crap, I just got a Tres Leches craving. Mmmm.

  25. I like the idea of doing it as the FA did it. Very "bouldering" and "mano e mano".
    It pays respect to the game you low-balls play.
    Punt on...