Monday, December 14, 2009

Fall Recap

Well, the wisconsin bouldering season is all but over and lots of shit went down! I always like looking back on things and you guys seem to put up with my ramblings rather well.

I had a couple of predictions coming into the fall season and while I wasn't totally on point, I was pretty damn close!

1 - Alpine Club will be climbed two more times before year end.

While it did get climbed by Mr. Nic 4 times in rapid succession, I'm not counting those towards the count. I gotta give credit to Sweaty for figuring out a way to bump his way through the problem and tick this thing off his list! Well done sir! Sad to say that this one didn't get a second send this past fall. Remo, Dobbe and myself all threw ourselves at it to no avail. Jeff also came close but he'll have to make a return trip soon to clean house.

2 - Beautiful Soup will be climbed 3 more times before year end.

Well, we got close! Again, I overguessed by one person! Chris and I were lucky enough to send on our last day out and I thought Remo had it in the bag but he couldn't quite muster the crux throw. He came as close as someone could!! The first time he sticks the rail it's done!

On a more personal note, this problem meant a lot to me and I'm very happy that I was able to finish this one off. After falling on the last move four times in a row I wasn't sure about it. Huge thanks to Remo for figuring out the finishing move! I feel like i've got the problem on lockdown right now. It's a good feeling to have!

3 - Keymaker will get its second and third ascents.

Big ol' thanks to Nic who came into town and had a phenomenal day. He cleaned up Keymaker after splitting a tip and opened that thing back up to us. Sometimes all it takes is a little chalk and everything seems so much more doable.

Jeff came really close but couldn't quite lock into the high right hand at the end of the day. I had my chance as well and I'm happy I was able to link up to the crimp. I'm confident it'll go next year!!

Again, so close!! Only one off!

4 - Perfect Medium will get sent twice by year end.

Well, this one I got right! Actually under guessed! Peter sent it in late summer and then Gabe and Remo both cleaned this one up as soon as the temps fell a bit. Nice job boys!!!

5 - The Greatest Show on Earth will get done at least once.

Well, that one didn't get done. It seemed that every time I got remotely excited to clean it off I was able to find something else I'd rather do! Even with Nic badgering me twice weekly to clean it off I never really found time to get over there. Oh well.

6 - I will finally re-find Massive Vertigo

Check! That thing got worked over! Sweaty, Remo, Chris, Dobbe, Jeff and Nic all sent it this fall. Big thanks to Jason for some directions!

On top of that the whole area surrounding Massive Vertigo had a bit of life breathed into it! New problems, old forgotten testpieces and futuristic projects were all found in the area. As we walked down on our last day we all made a resolution to come back to the area next spring. I love seeing excitement like that!!

7 - RV and I will finally do Sandstone Violence

I gotta say, my excitement for Dodge has never been lower. I'll head back early in the spring and finish up SV with the brown kid, but I keep on finding my motivation for spending any amount of time there severely lacking. The climbing at Devil's Lake is just so good and you can't dispute the rock quality. It's amazing!! The problems are classic and the atmosphere is fairly incredible. I've never been as excited to spend time at DL. It's just so good!

There were a few things that I didn't see coming on my radar though. Sex and Chocolate getting sent by pretty much everyone (Aaron, Gabe, Dobbe, Remo, Am I missing anyone???) and I definitely didn't expect Jenga to get as much traffic as it did! Remo, Tony, Myself (finally), Chris, Brian, Aaron, Nic and Sweaty all sent this classic and it stands as one of the best problems in the park! On top of that, I believe 4 other people from the Chicago area also sent this rig! Proud!

I definitely didn't see myself sending what was the Squeeze Project. Moj came as a beautiful surprise and is the highlight of my entire climbing season. It's something I hold very close to me and means more than I can ever hope to express in words.

That lone problem is my mark from the 2009 season. I feel very fortunate that I am able to be here during this renaissance of sorts. We're in the midst of something fairly big and unique for the midwest. We are our own generation.

That makes me very happy.

I think we can all agree it was a good year.

I've got more coming down the pipeline, including a 7 day onslaught of pictures from this past year. Get ready people.

34 comments:

  1. Care to make any predictions for the Spring? Unless I hurt myself (which I am being very careful about by the way) I plan to hit the ground running, as soon as I am back in the country. That is, as soon as things are dry I plan to be falling off them. I am pretty sure I can get early morning bouldering (even in the cold) with Remo going again. And yes, I do have a chip on my shoulder! I have been climbing all plastic while you guys have been sending like mad at the Lake!

    Although, I guess it will be hard for you and Katie to get out as much, what with the baby on the way and all.

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  2. Nice stuff - After a year of barely any climbing I'm itching to actually get out.

    Once we get a chance we'll hit up Vedauwoo - I'll thrash my way up something easy and painful for you...

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  3. It was a lot of fun to get on some stuff at the lake this fall. It was really neat to see all of the new stuff getting found and trying and managing to do some of the newly found old classics. Put me on the list to send 'The Keymaker' in the spring. Also I heard there is some sort of new 'sex and chocolate' beta or something. I'd love to here about that. I'm psyched for the spring and also doing S.V. As I recal there are a handful of things for you out there 'strong men also cry', 'highly executed' etc. Also, can you put up a prediction for people repeating Chaos up at Central for the spring? maybe that'll get people up there to try it :-) I'm so thrilled with this little community we have right now. lots of fun. also, curious who else from around here did Jenga? i know my buddies kevin and andy did it with De Salvo... who else?
    sweaty

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  4. Mr. D.B. Robinson - Already way ahead of you. That's on the plate for today!

    Tony - Glad to see you checking in!!!! I'd love to hear about any and all thrashing! Sounds horrible!!

    Sweaty - I'll toss you on the list for Keymaker. You'd just better sack up!! Such a good year and glad you got a chance to get out a little!!

    Also, Sweaty, didn't your two friends do it when you came up to do Alpine Club?

    Narc - Totally forgot about that one!! Did he ever make it back to Moj??

    As a funny side note, strong man Rick nearly did Alpine Club in early December. He fell off the last move 5-6 times. So sad!!

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  5. Great post Steve! Agreed with Sweaty and you on the community and the generation of climbers we have, the motivation is so thick we could climb on it! Great work everyone who has been psyched to discover again the killer rock we all have to play on in our little midwest region. GREAT YEAR!!!

    We should all plan a local bouldering trip next spring. I picture van loads(including the Five Ten van) of climbers making there way around the midwest getting after all the testpiece problems. From So Ill to Sawmill, we could crank anything in our way. Does this sound crazy to anyone? Who's in?

    Cheers,
    Remo

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  6. Nope they worked it but didnt finish it. Lame. What last move are we speaking of on Alpine club the move to the sloper/gason/or bump? If so, I fell off of that about a hundred. lol
    sweaty

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  7. That sounds awesome Remo!!! i would be sooo psyched. Lets not forget that So Ill is still climbable...
    sweaty

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  8. Negative, Kevin didn't get back on it.

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  9. Remo - that would be a mighty good trip! I'd be interested!

    Sweaty - Ahh, then take two of those chicago ascents off. I thought they did it!! Still a ton of people rounded that problem up!!

    Rick fell off the top as in going for the jug at the lip. He figured out some crazy hand stacking method for the crux.

    Narc - Damn, that's too bad! Was hoping he'd do it!!

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  10. ohh wow. thats a bummer. I felt like those were the thank goodness holds. Yes a ton of people did Jenga still. Such a great problem!
    I'm trying to start a trend which was picked up by one person (even if the video's of Dobbe are sideways) of filming a lot of problems. I feel like getting video of all these classics that we get on are good tools for getting more people psyched on the Wisconsin stone grappling... Or in Eggnuggets case a way to steal beta he could have never thought of and then send. Long story short is everyone should ask for a shitty video camera for christmas :-)
    sweaty

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  11. Yes, from now on all comments on mp are disallowed unless there is vid to show beta, so that us old folks can have a shot in hell at sending. Except in sweaty's case, the beta is probably harder, so take those with a grain of salt. I did get a new camera, tricked my wife into putting it on her business account-- it's high def vid capable. Sweet! ce

    PS. Still waiting to hear the big news.

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  12. awesome! Well played sir.
    sweaty

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  13. Man you guys are like vultures!!! The news is biggish, not huge. And it might be a little bit till some more things get finalized. And it's all climbing related. No babies involved. Freaking RV.

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  14. Is it guidebook related? This was about the time last year that there were talkings. lol.

    P.S. Congrats on the baby

    sweaty

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  15. Guidebook was my second thought too Sweaty. Guidebooks don't poop right before you are headed out the door, so that is a potential advantage over a baby as well. Plus guidebooks don't keep you up at night. Well, not in the same manner. ce

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  16. I am moving back in Feburary and will clean off the Greatest Show myself and after I send it (if I do) I will put the dirt right back on top.


    -nic

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  17. I'll let ya know what happens - winter in Vedauwoo isn't exactly pleasant so it may be spring before we get up there.

    I do want to leave some more skin on the rock up there, as we may be moving back to the midwest as early as next summer (depending upon jobs)

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  18. P.s. It was 5 times not 4.


    -nic

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  19. But who's counting? Am I right nic?
    sweaty

    p.s. congrats on the little tike steve.

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  20. Sweaty-
    I only keep count for the historical reference.

    Steve-
    a KID, wow. WWBT?(WHAT WILL BUNNIES THINK). You forgot to add the fact that your wife is now my wife.

    -nic

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  21. In that case.... Nic congradulations on the baby. Steve please disregard previous congradulatory sentiments. That is all.
    sweaty

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  22. @Everyone: The big news is a baby. They didn't want to tell anyone till it was at least 4-5 months in to avoid people badgering them about it. I slipped up, misunderstood and let the cat out of the bag way too early. Steve, Katie, I am really sorry about that. But now that everyone knows, could you please try not to badger them about it? As otherwise they are gonna hate me (even more than usual). Thanks guys!

    @Remo: I would be down for a trip!

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  23. Does that mean you are going to bring the dog back?
    sweaty

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  24. Shit yeah! Congrats Steve and Katie. That baby is going to be a cranker.
    Remo

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  25. Damn RV. You're a persistent little fucker. No we're not having a kid, although any and all congratulations are fucking hilarious. Aren't they Narc?

    Puppies only for us.

    RV....well done......this isn't over.

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  26. Wait, the Narc is having a kid? ce

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  27. Congradulations to Narc!... Nic, Katie and Steve... Sad for puppy who is now being returned in trade from screaming child.
    sweaty

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  28. FUck.

    Deal is off. I won a skinny, Cleaning, and climbing wife. Not A FAT BITCHY WIFE. I am out, She is yours.

    Remo,
    I would be down for a trip and Steve's kids will not crank.
    1. THEY will be short (thanks mom)
    2. THEY WILL PUNT (thanks dad)

    Narc,
    A baby? I thought your website was getting a bit stale. No wonder. Congrats.

    R.V.
    I will still kill you if someone gives me a snickers.

    Sweaty,
    that is still a terible "Nic" Name.

    Everyone,

    1)When will someone clean off Greatest show?

    2)Hardest leadable Route at the lake?

    -nic

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  29. Nic, I'll hold off on the case of king size snickers for now as we've made a truce......but possibly soon.

    Hardest Leadable Route at the lake?? Bagatelle?? Rubberman maybe??? Ice would be terrifying but the top, Peyote, has been led. That'd be horrifying though. Can't imagine going into Peyote, pumped, with no gear below you.

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  30. wow. that is a nic highlight i do believe. especially the part that describes what their child will be like. awesome.
    sweaty

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  31. Yeah, the description of what our kid would end up like was about as spot on as anyone could have managed.

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  32. Congrates Narc, now you will have a baby site called BabyNarc.com, so obsessed with changing diapers it hurts.

    Nic- I will ski out to Greatest Show this winter and clean it(and send it) for you. And I think Phlogiston 5.12d may be the hardest lead at the Lake, or Shaking Hands with a Chimp 5.13a, though I think Phlogiston is harder. I know Huston was working the first lead of Rubberman 5.13a, but now sure if he sent.

    Cheers,
    Remo

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  33. HMM, add that to your predictions.


    -nic

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