Sunday, May 3, 2009


Katie, bag of cereal in hand, sprinting towards the car

Spring has apparently come and gone here and Madison went from 40 degrees and perfect to 65 and humid within a week. Unless we get a cold snap it looks like spring is shifting into summer already. Sad, to say the least.

We had another good day at Governor Dodge but it was much more relaxed this time around. Katie and I putzed around on our respective projects while Justin and RV both dispatched Hangman with relative ease.
Justin working on the first crux of Highly Executed

RV floating the crux moves on Hangman

RV matching the finish hold on the Governor Dodge classic, Hangman

RV topping out with the new pads beneath him

It was our first time back at Group Camp B in about a month or so and there were maybe 20-25 people up there this time. It's in stark contrast to a couple years ago when it was rare to see anyone at all up there. I keep on wondering if traffic up there is going to ever move back to Devil's Lake. I'm actually not sure it will. Lack of friction and some very unfriendly landing make it a tough proposition. Couple that with some very sandbagged ratings and you've got an area that will definitely crush your ego a bit.

After a couple of hours at Camp B we decided to head over to the Illusions of Paradise roof. I'd looked at it once before and Katie wanted to work the roof, as well as something to the right of it. Unfortunately the bulge to the right was less than inspiring and very "Dodge". We all put in some work on IOP and RV made really good progress on it at the end of the day.
Rv, reaching for the first move on one of his better links on Illusions of Paradise

I personally continued along my quest of falling off of the last move of as many things as possible in one season. It's going well. Really, it is. I was able to figure out the all the moves on Illusions of Paradise and got absurdly close to finishing it. Ah well. Another one that'll have to wait till next time.

We had a chance to use our new pads and I'm very happy with them. Seriously one of the best designs out there and Josh was as easy to work with as I could have hoped. Couldn't be any happier with them. I'll have a full review once I get some more use in. Katie's lightning bolt pad is perhaps the coolest thing ever.


  1. thunder bolt. duh.

  2. crazy there was so many people there dude! I'm psyched you guys like those climbs so much and love the title of "dodge classic" for Hangman! :-)

  3. Dangerous Brown RobinsonMay 3, 2009 at 11:05 PM

    I am proud to announce that the Sicky Gnar Blog is now the first google hit when you search for sicky gnar butt (and sicky gnar). It is a bit problematic actually, I was actually trying to find some sicky gnar butt!


    Dangerous Brown Robinson.

  4. Yeah Group B is hopping these days! 2 summers ago when we moved here, I think only 1-2 times did I see anyone else out there in maybe 20 times that summer/fall. There was rarely chalk on anything. Ah well. Great climbing weekend for sure, even Devils Lake kind of felt like it had some friction.

    I considered going out to look at The Bulge to the right of IOP a couple weeks ago but got enthralled in other problems. What it is that is "Dodge"? Choss?

    Did anyone send the hard Lake lines (saw Remo's pics on mp)?

    Cheers! -ce

  5. Glad that the lake was good to you! it's hard to tell when friction is going to be good or not.

    The bulge might clean up to be something good but all of the feet look like they'll just keep on breaking forever and ever. It could clean up to be something good but wasn't very inspiring.

    I'll have an update on the lake soon. Nic got about as close as you could on both of them without sending. Kinda heartbreaking.

  6. I just looked at Narc's site, lots of cool pics. Wow, those problems look even harder with people on them. I hiked up to Alpine Club when it was still icy and snowy this spring and man did that look hard. I tried to pull off the ground but without a pad and with wet shoes it was near impossible for me. I suspect there is about another 2-3 weeks that it will even be remotely possible to hang on then summer will be here.

    Steve-- is there any eliminatery on Perfect Medium? I would like to try that problem at some point in earnest, and don't want to find out afterwards that I used some foot that people consider 'off'.

    That's what I thought 'The Bulge' might be. It used to be listed as a project which made it a little more appealing but without knowing for sure, it looks like it's been sent. And if that's true, and if it's choss, then there really is no reason to go get it, IMO.


  7. We'll have to try alpine club together chris. I'm very psyched on it right now.

    As for Perfect Medium, pretty much everything is on. It's nice. no real eliminate BS and just two real moves. I started left hand on the super sharp crimp and right hand on the arete. Seemed legit to me!

  8. dudes I want to try that shit two!!! not so much perfect medium as the west bluff stuff though. I will be in madison on business thurs and done in the early afternoon... any chance you guys want to shoot up there then? pretty please?

  9. Dang, I am working full day this Thursday. Is this Sweatpants? If it was *next* Thursday I will be working in Baraboo and probably done early afternoon too! Too bad!

    Glad to hear Perfect Medium is not the typical eliminate! And I would love to work Alpine Club to try to 'monkey see monkey do' it with you. Next week I work in Baraboo Wednesday (until ~4pm), Thursday (probably done around 2pm). Maybe that would work? For the weekend, Steve Z and I might rope up... Somewhere...


  10. yeah it is. bummer.

  11. Chris, I would be down to work PM with you too. I have looked at it many times, but have yet to lay hands on it. Maybe Steve could go up there and shoot us a little beta. Your invited too Sweaty. Oh, and I will be in LaX this weekend climbing with T. Melin if anyone wants to drive up and join us.
    Peace, Remo

  12. Cool, Remo. Yeah beta on P.M. from Steve would be cool. Wish I could go to LaX this weekend. Alas working instead. Will post up here or email folks about next week. CE

  13. werd Remo. I would love to climb with you guys! Remo, Steve... anyone availible thurs afternoon-evening to climb???

  14. I'm not in thursday, unfortunately. But I'd definitley be in for showing you the beta and taking some pics of the line. We'll have to figure something out. So Psyched people are looking to boulder at the lake!

  15. That would be great dude! Me, steve dew and Melin went to rattlesnake mound and had a good bit of fun.