Monday, May 11, 2009

Home Wall Ideas

Katie and I are moving in a couple weeks and we're going to be putting the homewall back up. Right now it looks like we're planning on having an 8 foot wide 45 and possibly one other angle. We'll see how much space we have. Anyone have any ideas out there? I'd love to hear them.

Our last homewall was steep. Almost too steep. End to end the wall was 17 feet long, including the kicker, and maybe 7 feet tall. One 4 foot section of 45 and three 4 foot sections of maybe 70 degrees overhung. Very steep.

Our local gym doesn't have A/C so we're excited about having a small wall at home to play around on. Should be good. I'm VERY excited to move.

Also, our gym uses mainly clay holds. What are everyone's favorite plastic brands? I have my own ideas and there are a couple that stick out in my mind, but I'm curious what everyone else uses.


  1. Nicros makes the best training holds. They have "cracking issues" but this only exists in gyms with uneven texture. I can also get you the hook up.

    as for the wall. Make it 60. I did a ton of research on optimal pulling angles for training during my days with Nicros. 60 is the best, It allows you to pull up the wall along while still having to hold yourself in.

    I am telling you, 60, NiCROS, AND WOOD.



  2. I like ETCH hols a lot and also Teknik holds from Canada are sick. Especially their crimps.

  3. for a small wall, i tend to gravitate towards the more simplistic shapes rather than the artistic ones. i also agree with the 60deg angle idea. that's what i rock on a tiny basement wall. vert enough to still pull crimpy lockoff moves and steep enough that even mindless jug hauling figure eight laps of death is taxing. only gripe is that it is really difficult to find sloper holds that are usable at this angle. i'd love a 45 or 35 for sloper moves: my nemisis.

    for funky holds, i really like soill. for more standard shapes, i like the geometric stuff from e-grips.

    i do like the nicros holds that i've got... pretty good balance between sticky and slick texture. i hate metolious' texture. slick crap. for uniform edged or sloped holds, the so ill is nice and grippy, which is helpful when the temperatures rise... but not nice for sore, worn out fingers.

  4. I have a 45 degree, 8' x 8'. It's ok. I also have about 8' tall by 24' vertical that I don't use much but my son has some jug hauls on that a TR can also be set up on. The 45 is pretty good at getting a pump but too small to "work" anything. I have whatever brand of holds REI has so when my dividend comes every year I get more "free" holds. The holds themselves stand up to abuse but are not interesting. I think Metolius. Where you moving to? Still around here right? CE

  5. I was gonna ask: who makes good 'pinch' holds? I need some of those. CE

  6. Thanks everyone for the responses! I really do appreciate all of your guys comments!

    Nic - If we have enough space I'd love to do a 45 and a 60. Not sure though. We got a couple of Nicros Catalogs a while back and I remember liking a bunch of their stuff. I'll probably take you up on your offer....

    Sweaty - I haven't looked closely at either of those guys. Thanks for the recommendations!

    Socky - Glad to hear you like your 60. I need to figure out what our angle was before. Definitely more than 60 but i'm not sure how much more. I keep on looking at e-grips. Everyone seems to like them a lot. any particular series you like?

    Chris - We'll still be around here, just moving over to Dempsey kinda by monona. We'll have a nice little basement and our own house rather than a flat. There are still way too many projects to do around here to leave just yet. If I remember right So Ill made some good beefy pinches. And Nicros actually has some cool dual tex pinches that would work the weakness a little better.

  7. Cool. You callin' me weak? Just kidding. I am. Glad you are sticking around. Yeah I have so many projects I can't decide from day to day where to head. Wish I had more time. Thanks for the beta, I'll check out SoIll and Nicros. CE

  8. NOW I know how eggbert is so strong. Training his ass off on the home wall no doubt. His secret is out!

  9. Narc- you must be referring to the younger Eggbert. He turns 4 this month, and yeah he's ripped. ce