Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Governor Dodge at Night

Not wanting to spend another night in the gym Katie, RV and I drove out to Governor Dodge last night after work. We arrived around 7 or so and went up to Hangman and Highly Executed. Low motivation and humid conditions dominated at first. We all played around but didn't really commit or try hard. I know Katie and I are pretty burned out on both of those problems and we really just don't care about them anymore.

After a bit of prodding and poking Katie convinced us to get back on Sandstone Violence.

Everyone has personal epics and demons that they try to avoid. Sandstone Violence is that for me, it's an epic and I'm so intimidated by it it's not even funny. I know I can do the moves but I avoid trying them at all costs. Sandstone Violence is maybe my biggest climbing failure ever and I hate it.

I've got a history with this problem that's kind of hard to put into words. It's the only project of mine that has actively fought back and it came within two inches of doing some VERY serious damage to my head.

I've done harder climbs and I've done scarier climbs. I'm not sure what it is about Sandstone Violence that just sort of wigs me out, but it totally messes with me.

I'm glad that Katie made us get on it. I didn't send the stupid thing but I got closer than I've been in almost three years. It was a good feeling again and reminded me how much fun the moves can be. RV got a new highpoint on his first go and looked as solid as you could on every go after that.

I ended the night by getting my right hand on the last right hand crimp before the jump. Right where I ended my attempts in 2006. Right before that stupid block smoked me in the shoulder. It felt good, really good, and now I actually want to get on it again. It's nice to feel that again. It's been too long old friend.

So many times I say that it'll go down next trip, and so many times I'm just so wrong. I can honestly say with this problem that I have no clue at all if/when I will eventually do it. I hope it'll be soon though.

Here are a couple of pictures from the night.


  1. Also, the headlamp look is so fast and radical! Sick bro!


  2. Cool night pics Steve! Very surreal. ce

  3. Sweet Steve, looked like a good time. I'm sure I would be worried if a climb tried to take me out in the past too. Just promise me you won't let RV send before you do.

  4. I am sure Steve will send it before me. In all fairness, deep down in the depths of my black scarred soul I am a plastic monkey. If it doesn't have double tape clearly marking every move, I cant do it.

  5. I'll do my best to hold RV back. He's getting strong though....might be time for a "car accident"....