Friday, June 4, 2010


Enough talk about poop, triathlons and Jade. On to much more rad stuff now.

Projects seem to go in waves. We saw it last fall with Moj and saw it at dodge a couple years ago with Highly Executed and Battle of the Bulge. All of a sudden interest is high and people go out in droves to try the sick project. It's fun to watch.

Right before I did Moj, Runnells, Tony and Kevin were all EXTREMELY close to sending the rig. Both Kevin and Tony had fallen after the crux move and for Brian it was just coming down to doing it once and he'd do the problem. The whole atmosphere added to the urgency of doing the problem and gave us all a bit more adrenaline than expected. Days like those are fun.

We've still got a bunch of good projects out there right now and it seems that none of them are getting any play. Time to suss em out boys.

Half Dome Project - This one feels a good deal harder than any other project I've played on at the lake. The start can feel kind of awkward though, especially if you're a bit taller. Right Runnells? The first move is tough, but not bad, but the second move felt absolutely brutal to me. It's been almost a year since I've been on it though so I'm interested to try it again. Could be hard. Felt harder than Moj or Beautiful Soup.

Seam Project - While I think the stand start on the boulder is kind of stupid, it's still a really hard move. The left hand start on the sloping rail will be very hard. Personally I'm much more interested in the lower left start.

Jack Backwards - One of the more impressive unclimbed walls at the lake. Sven's guide seems to put the project as the dirty corner but the real gem is the wall itself. Seems like some pretty bad holds lead to a good jug and another possibly hard sequence to reach the lip. Tall and cool looking.

Impossiproject - I wish this one had a perfect "putting green" landing. I just wish. It'd be one of the best lines out there but instead it's kind of a heartbreaker. It'll be an amazing problem when it gets done but the landing definitely takes away a little bit. The arete itself is downright amazing and after looking at it again this spring I've no doubt that it'll get done eventually.

Any other big projects I'm missing out there. We've got 4 relatively prime projects right now. Get after it!


  1. You should have realized I'd hurt myself within a week (which I did) and that you would have months to do Moj before me.

    Was not remotely psyched about Half Dome. Dabby start, holds facing the wrong direction, sharp, hard etc etc list of excuses from me.

  2. Good point sir. In reality I had plenty of time with you. Though I never know when you're gonna get lucky.

    Half Dome definitely looks better than it climbs. At least until you get used to the first move. Can't imagine you and kevin on it though. Guess that's what you get for being tall!

  3. Some of us prefer, nay dare I say REQUIRE beta to be able to pull anything off. Please videotape eventual sends of these projects, let me know when they get sent, and I'll get to work. Back to punting, ce

  4. Oh yeah, Half Dome is HARD and the landing does nothing to heighten my enthusiasm. I am a wuss. ce

  5. Oh yeah Steve (or anyone) does the larger Organic pad (4 foot by 5 foot) fit inside a normal car trunk? Like an older Accord? I bottomed out my old Franklin pad yesterday and that didn't inspire any confidence. ce

  6. So half dome is very managable with two full pads. you just have to jam a buckle in one of the cracks. it's easy.

    As for an accord, doubt that a big pad will fit into the trunk. maybe though. I bet it will fit into the backseat rather easily on the other hand.

    You should probably get either a full pad/half pad setup or a big pad. Now. Shipping will be cheap and fast as since he's still in the minnesooooota.

    Yay organic!

  7. I really want the big pad so i can sleep on it and it covers so much more area. Plus I already had a few smaller pads to plug holes in the talus as needed. I guess putting it in the backseat instead of the trunk is a small price to pay. Do you think I can put this on my wife's credit card and have her not notice? Hmm... Gotta think of a way to make this happen. I guess father's day is coming up... Hmm...

  8. Get the big pad. Do it. It's a father's day gift. You know you want to. I'm sure the wifey won't notice it at all. And really, we're talking about your well being here. Your SAFETY!!

    Chris, your safety is of my upmost concern.

  9. LOL, that is a BRILLIANT angle. Can't compromise safety of course!!! Love it. I will call them on Monday. Now, what color??? Hmm...

  10. YESSSSS!!!

    I think it's more appropriate to say "What colors(plurality awesomeness)".

    Get something good and bright/fun!

  11. Something that doesn't make my butt look too big.

  12. Projects?! There is only one right now and thats Jade!

  13. Big pad comin my way. Sahweet! Can't wait. Literally 2 minutes after I sent my email inquiry he called. Wow. On a Sunday. Funny, turns out I had met Josh before, back in the day at Prairie Walls. Strange how life comes around. Pretty excited about the new pad. ce

  14. Oh, and I put it on the wife's Paypal account, so now we wait to see if it flies under the radar... :) ce