Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Updates All Round

Well, Katie is coming back from another successful day at the lake. Last Saturday a hold on the topout of Anchorpoint broke off upping the difficulty/commitment a touch. I haven't personally seen it but it sounds like it added a bit of challenge to it.

It sounds like both Katie and Ian have done it now without the hold but I'm not sure if it upped the anty any with the grade. Who cares really? I'm honestly glad to hear that it still goes. I've got fond memories of shutting Kelsen down on that thing and that's all that matters, right?

Sam is apparently close on that and she's working on Jenga. It's cool to have seen her get so strong recently.

What has everyone else been up to? My shoulder is doing better but still angry. Dobbe did Grimace down south apparently but I haven't chatted with him yet.

Go. Entertain me.


  1. grimace is a lot of fun. props to Dobbe!

    I'm starting to think there's something going on with Ian and Katie... be careful Steve :-)

    I've been climbing a lot (read: not at all). But I did do my first tri of the season and cut 13 minutes off my time for the same event from last year.I got some great pictures that I'm sure you all would appreciate as much as one of Remo with a Frisbee.

  2. Glad to hear some got to take advantage of the good temps yesterday! I sadly have been nursing a little bit of a sore elbow, and getting over a bad cold. Kids are such cesspools of viruses. Ugh. Also working a lot to make up enough time to take 2 weeks off later this month, a week of which will be in the Black Hills. Can't wait. Hope your shoulder gets better Steve. ce

  3. The top of anchorpoint is a little more committing (at least when you cant quite reach the finish jug). I just got a high right foot in the slopey dish with my left hand on a little gaston-ey edge and my right on a sidepull, high high left heel on the lip and roll up for the finish jug. I had to pop a little but if I had another inch or two of reach I could have just grabbed it. more committing and a little harder but don't think it changes the grade at all. the right foot is pretty scary though. THere may be a way to do it using the jugs on the right wall but I think that would change the problem a lot.

    I would climb with steve more if he would heal faster and quit his job!!!!! although I am not sure the bike shop salary could support his climbing shoe habit.

    anyone climbing saturday????


  4. nice job Katie. You decided to write your name. Nice!

  5. Nice job Katie and Ian. Aaron told me him and Chris Esser felt the break made the climb harder. Curious to go try it now.
    Went out to Burma Rd. this morning, and I'm pretty psyched on that area again. It's been years since I've been there, and I forgot how good some of those moderates are. I also noticed a couple lines that could be projects? Real dirty, and not listed on Eric's guide. Too bad that place gets so wet and buggy.
    Heal soon Steve!

  6. So the news of Anchorpoint breaking is particularly distressing to me. Over the last year I've put six days into that thing (I had no buisness on it the first few, but it's been cool to grow into the problem as I've gotten stronger). On my last day, I linked the crux from the sit for the first time and got the high right positive crimp in the slab (this is the one gone right?), got my feet up on the slab, stood up, and punted epically. Maybe the top hold breaking just adds the the personal drama I've had with the thing, but I'm psyched to hear it's still possible. Katie, when you mention the finish jug, do you mean the good holds at the top of Hogleg Corner, or something else? How do you descend on this, up and over, or down either side?


  7. Hi Dylan,
    it is still doable for sure. I did not use the jugs on the hogleg face--I thought that would change the line too much. with my right on the crux crimp I got a crap left gaston then bumped right to a thin edge. I stepped right foot into the slopey dish and had to lean way back to make it stick. Then I threw a left heel way up high over the little edge (just below and left of my left hand) . i went up left hand to the jug hold at the break at the very top of the boulder. I had to pop a bit which was scary because my left foot was such crap but the hold is a jug at least. you will probably be able to rock up on the heel and reach it statically. it is more scary. and a little more fun.


  8. So I only answered half your question. sorry. there is an okay hold to the left after the jug and a good foot to go up and over to the left. then it is easy to down climb the back side.

    in this photo:
    remo's right hand is on the broken hold, the jug is directly above it at the break (maybe eight inches or so?) and I got the left heel just below his left hand on the chalk spot.

  9. Cool thanks.