Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Schultz Bird-day

This past Sunday was our very first wedding anniversary and we went up to Taylors to have a mini vacation. RV and Sofie joined us since they're being punks and are moving away at the end of this month.

Friday was a pretty mellow day and we messed around in the cave a bit. Katie quickly repeated the center line on the Pharoah boulder and then RV flashed both the center and the left. At first he ridiculed me for my awesome 'campus smearing' method but soon he understood.

RV on Pharoah Right

Katie and Sofie started working cave center to cave left and Katie quickly dispatched that one.

Katie repeating Pharoah Center

I figured out all the moves on the cave traverse once more but my motivation was never there this past weekend. I made a few good links but never anything substantial. As always it feels like piss in two parts but impossible when all put together.

We got a pretty serious rainstorm Saturday morning and then were quickly mobbed by some big fucking mosquitos. They actually picked up and moved RV's Jetta. No joke.

After a sub par meal at Nacho Mama's in Stillwater we went back to the potholes and screwed around on some really fun moderates with polished everything. Really cool features and lots of jackassery from yours truly made for a fun afternoon. Later on that day we went back to the cave so Sofie could finish up the center line which she promptly did. RV put on his boots but Katie and I just sat around killing bugs until they packed up.

Sunday was definitely the most eventful day as far as climbing goes. Everything started out at the Cave. I had a few really good efforts on the traverse but it just wasn't coming together. RV on the other hand was looking stronger than ever on it and then one time he hopped on, cruised through the drop move and bumped up to the good left hand edge.

Done. In the bag. Crushing it.

Then I remembered who I was dealing with. I turned around to get some glory shots on the finish jugs and all I heard between screams of encouragement was a grunt and then the flutter of moving pads as the punt fairies came to town.

Fucking punter.

We packed the bags and went over to the potholes and screwed around by slicksides. It was toasty over there and the sun was just baking on the dark rock. RV quickly did the prow problem and I quickly punted on it over and over. Motivation was not high. We all messed around on a random traverse and then booked it over to the Wisconsin side once more to play on Mike's.

A couple things here.

1 - That is a fucking hard V7.

2 - RV and I were apparently starting one move before the actual problem started. Awesome.

I was finally able to figure out some decent beta by going up right hand into the first seam off of the giant undercling. RV couldn't quite get it to work though and eventually just helped me figure out the upper moves. Sadly my skin couldn't quite make it and before I could really put any serious effort into finishing it I had to give up.

That said, after two work days it feels doable. But balls hard for a 7. I do love the Midwest.

Sorry RV. I had to. Click this one for a laugh.

Now to the important stuff.

Cake and booze. We went to the grocery store and got a birthday cake. Then we went to the liquor store and got some "viskey" and brandy.

Sofie quickly and quietly polished off half of Brandy. Solo. Proud.



The next day we stopped in Minneapolis to see Josh at Organic. RV and Sofie hadn't met Josh and it's always nice seeing him. As always he's got some cool things going on there and on top of everything I got to oogle his new plastic. His homewall in PA is gonna be sick! Katie got to play with Barndog a little bit and it was a nice end to the trip.

Every time I hang out with Josh I find more reasons to support his business and this time was no different. I'm always surprised at how often his designs are blatantly copied and sold as original ideas. It's bullshit really. As a bonus he's one of the few dudes out there that's coming up with new and cool ideas. So that's something, right?

Anyways. Buy Organic. Lots of it. Buy Five Ten. Buy Mountain Hardwear. Buy Nicros. Buy Pusher/Revolution. More on all that soon though.

The weather is turning and Katie and I are getting psyched about a lot of different trips and it's time to train again. I ran 3.6 miles today and it sucked. Fucking blew. I feel good now though. That's what matters.

Here are some more pics for ya.

Katie on the Cave Traverse

Sofie on Cave Center to Cave Left

Sofie on Pharoah Center

Sofie roasting cinnamon rolls in the AM.

I gotta have one of these in every post, right?

Mike's Left

Sofie's Senior Picture.

Katie getting rid of the mosquitos.


  1. happy birthday sir!

    Where's the brown kid going? he can't move before i even meet him in person. weak

  2. strange beta on Mike's Left! Burly! DW seems to have popularized going to the heinous crimpy thingy before grabbing the sidepull, but I think the traditional method equals going to the sharp sidepull left hand first. I've also only seen folks start with the left undercling and right slopey sidepull (with clutch thumbwrap). some foot edges out right are also "in" and very key. no eliminates here. more power to whatever beta you choose! i think nic has a video somewhere, if you're into that sort of thing. JWill

  3. PS-- bought some Montrail Trail shoes based on your enthusiasm for the Co. and some good reviews. Freakin' awesomest shoes I've ever run in. I've started seeking out awesome trail runs out here in SF Bay even though I haven't run seriously in a couple years. Your passion sold me on it. Thanks- JW

  4. Sweaty - Super weak I know! Sofie and him are moving out to Davis California. RV got a job at the university and he and his stupid faces will be sorely missed around these parts. Don't worry though. I've got quite a backlog of stupidity lined up for that man.

    Looks like we're gonna have a party for him in late october/early november when he's back in town. you should come up for it and climb rocks with us!!!

    JP - Mike's is for sure classic. One of those rare gems that's hard no matter how you do it. Opening up out of the right hand bump after you get the left hand pockety edgy thing is a bit harder but once you do the first move once that way it gets a lot easier.

    Also very very cool that you got a pair of montrails!! Which ones??? As i read your comment i was just getting back from a run in a pair of rockridges. Too funny! Montrail has some killer stuff coming out soon so keep an eye out and thanks as always for the support!!

    Really glad you like the kicks by the way!

  5. No way! RV you can't leave!!!

    Well, at least we have a place to stay in California now. ce

  6. a) Don't any of you dirty hippies even presume to hope that you have a place to stay in California. Now that I am going to be in California I am too cool to associate with the likes of you dirty sandbaggers.

    b) I will still engage in long distance hate. I am sure California also has the interwebs.

    c) There will be multiple trips back to Madison. Not because I like anyone here or because purple rock is cool or because there are so many projects still left to do. But because there isn't any other place in the country I can climb on clay holds. Seriously, climbing outside is really only training for that one crimpy clay problem (the one with yellow tape, you know which one I am talking about) at Boulders.

    d) Climbing in Madison will be a much more supportive and nurturing activity once I am gone.

    e) Seriously, eff you all. I didn't like any of you anyway. Even the ones I have never met. Actually, I think I hate those of you I have never met or talked to more than the ones I have.

    f) California has better scones than Madison. Remember you can't dryfire off a scone. A scone loves you no matter what.

    g) I have a lot more to say but there is about a pound of chicken wings calling my name.

  7. thanks yo! rocking a pair of the sabino trail. i love the post, helping me move from a heel strike to a mid-foot strike; it's been great for me knees and ankles...

  8. It is called Pharaoh Right and Pharaoh Left. jeez..


    I am glad you are moving.. Maybe Steve will finally move to MN.



    I am headed to Sandstone today to find more projects, later.

  9. Steve, I grew up in the twin cities. Don't do it man! Madison is so much better!

    RV, you can't announce plans to move to California and then say "no guests". Doesn't work like that. ce

  10. Dear Egghead,

    I can announce plans to move to California and then say `no guests'. It does work like that. I am brown, I do what I want, when I want.

    It's kinda like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iP6XpLQM2Cs

    Hatefully yours,


  11. RV, your breaking my heart!

  12. Yeah, whatever Remo, you were ready to move yourself a few months ago. Besides it was never an emotional relationship between the two of us. We had an understanding that it was completely physical. All about the banging. And (I can say this now as part of my eff you to everyone) the banging wasn't very satisfying either, what with all the crying afterwards and everything.

  13. I see the hate is growing even more in Mr. Robinson. RV you're one to talk about crying after banging......just sayin'.

    Also, remo, we can console each other...

  14. Steve-O: does Katie know about this `consoling' you are going to do with Remo. *BUM CHIKA BUM BOW*

    Yes, that is my rendition of porn music.

    Speaking of hate, wait till the routesetters meeting this Sunday.