Monday, March 22, 2010

Down And Dirty

Big weekend for the lake methinks.  Here's a problem by problem recap.


RV, Katie and I went up on Friday hoping to get some time in before the rain/snow started up.  RV made quick work of this fantastic problem with nary a punt.  Although he did almost bite it on the topout.  How, I'm not sure since it's all jugs but there was a quick hearstopper of a moment as he rolled over muttering "I'm not done yet guys...kinda skeered...".  Awesome.

Katie had an absolutely awesome day out there getting all but the last move on the rig.  She got the crux move with a bit of work and shortly thereafter linked up to the final throw to the jug but jumped off.  Punt?

Either way we were all very psyched for her.  It was a really strong effort and she had it pegged for a multiple day project just to get the crux move.  Well done!!

This was made only more impressive when we went to the doctor later that day and got her cough checked out.  She's got the Pneumonia.  We laughed at the fact that if she'd have sent today she could have had the FFPA (First Female Pneumonia Ascent) of Jenga.

A cool sequence of RV on the first move of Jenga

Seam Project:

I was relatively excited on the Seam Project.  Really it just comes down to an odd jump move.  After a slight rectal exam at the hands of RV's spotting skillz I got a bit more comfy with the move.  It's really weird.  The swing feels huge and at first I was having trouble concentrating cause I was on the wall for such a short amount of time.  

After a while though I calmed myself down and got rather close.  Should go next time I hope.  Kind of a fun move.  Thanks to Katie for taking some pics to get people psyched.  There is a left hand start that would add two to three moves and could be quite hard.  Might try it.  Not sure.

A sequence of my best go on the Seam Project

Greatest Show:

Met up with Nic on Sunday to clean off the Greatest Show....Finally.  Nic went down and did a basic cleaning and I followed with another round.  Shit was duuurrty!!!   Wow.  Got it to a climbable state at least.  He tried a couple times from the ground then before going back up on a rope to figure out the crux move, which he did after a bit of work.

On TR...

We took a break from that thing and walked up to see how Remo and crew were doing up at Sex and Chocolate.  About halfway up we heard a yell and figured Remo sent the direct, which he did.  Fucking nice job!

We sat around up there for a little bit and then walked back to Greatest Show with pads where Nic promptly fired it first go.  Done and done.

Sequence of the send

Sex And Chocolate:

Like I said above Remo sent the Direct early in the day but Nic wanted to make a return trip to make a flash attempt.  Well, he punted.  Should have flashed it but his fingers were rolling off of the chip.  He did it quickly on his third go though.  He traversed over and looked at the direct but decided to drop off in favor of other things.

Perfect Medium:

We'd spent a day on this thing in the middle of summer and Nic had a good deal of contempt for it.  Wanting to just finish it off we dropped a pad below it and after about 15 minutes of work he sent, nearly punting well after hitting the jug.  The temper tantrum woulda been so good.

What the send probably looked like

And that's about it!  I had a really lazy day on Sunday opting to spot and just play around.  Just wasn't feeling it.  It was really nice just to be out.

I'm continually surprised that we're not seeing more people out right now.  We're seeing some of the best conditions I've ever seen at the lake.  It's been amazingly crisp!  GET OUT THERE!!!

Also, Nic had the quote of the weekend by calling Katie the "Runnells of being sick".  Fantastic.


  1. that is a super analogy!!!!! Great work out there yall.

  2. Sounds like a pretty sick weekend. I was not present for reasons that should be obvious. I'm not sure if that last line is a good thing or a bad thing but I will just assume good.

    For what it's worth, I believe that Brian and presumably Eric finished greatest show by going straight up. I was under the impression that this was the crux. Certainly from a mental standpoint. Either way it's good to see someone get on it. How did the rock quality seem??

  3. Yeah, that's sort of what we figured. The natural line of least resistance definitely leads to the left on jugs but there is a line going straight up. I may have seen a pic of Eric on it except he was almost all the way on the right arete. Seems like no one knows. Great.

    Rock quality was ok after it had been brushed a bit. Could be great if it gets some traffic. Hopefully that pebble you use for the first move stays intact.

  4. The "direct line" holds that you would grab with your left hand I could have grabbed with my right. The line I did was out the most efficient. It could be really hard going farther out right at the top but then the line is lost because you could do a line to the right of greatest show going up the arete.

    With that being said, I am usure of why you would go "direct" because it seems odd. It is the hardest line but is almost a eliminate?

    All I know is that the line I did was cool, If it was not done the same way as the original does that mean it was a FA? If so, I'll call it "The 2nd Greatest on Earth".


  5. I love the big weekends, good post Steve.

    Like I said yesterday, we have to stop inviting Nic down, he crushes everything. J/K, he does inspire us to climb harder though, thanks Nic.


  6. I'm really psyched to go get on some of that west bluff stuff you guys stumbled across at the end of the season. The prow, impossiproject, the roof, etc. that should be nic's next excursion i imagine.

  7. WHA? ROOFz!

    wtf steve! I know of no roof!

    I am only moderately syked on the arete. I have never seen it, if it is cool I will head out to try it. But until then I will be driving to SO Dak to try b3's.


  8. Damn dude, you say the word roof around you and ya get all excited in your pants! I believe sweaty is talking about the roof traverse boulder. If it wasn't so painful it could be cool. Oh wellz.

  9. And just like that, minds were blown. ce

  10. Get on board Nic, everything at the lake is some form of contrivance. That's how things have been done there for the last 50 years.

  11. If that is the case I am staying in MN.

    I asked this question to Steve yesterday,

    What is next? What have I not done?



  13. That problem looks terrible.


  14. Perhpas that's why nobody has tried it in 20 years? Hmm, I'm out.

  15. well if im going to be at the prow id like to check it out.

    p.s. I second you staying in Minnesota :-)