Friday, September 4, 2009


Oh man, what a good day at the lake yesterday!! Loved it! The weather was so good and we went to so many different problems and areas.

But first I've got an update on Katie's battle with Anchorpoint. Wednesday, instead of going mountain biking Katie went for a little road ride. She texted me before she left to see if I'd be down for spotting her on Anchorpoint later that night. I said sure and bided my time until I got home.

Upon arriving at the house Katie professed how stupid and pointless cycling is and we promptly drove up to the lake. She has finally agreed that she's got a bit of an obsession and that she is fully a climber now. Love it!

We had the perfect ferry arrival and the driver man lowered the gate so we could get onto it!! Very nice of him!

After a tiring hike up the talus for Katie, her legs were SHOT from her ride earlier, I put the pads down and Katie started figuring out what she'd do if she got up to the topout again. We figured something out that might work and she went to work!

Aside from her first go, when she tried to give the boulder a black eye, these were her best efforts by far! She looked strong, composed and relaxed on every go. She fell off once from the top and came down super relaxed and not stressed at all. It was definitely a new mindset for her and we were both pretty encouraged.

About 10 attempts in she stuck the crux move and then moved up and onto the slab with confidence. She grabbed a jug at the right corner and downclimbed back to the ground! DONE!

She could not have been any more psyched about it and it was a really strong effort on her part. We relaxed on the pads for a few minutes and Katie seemed euphoric and very content with herself.

This is why we do it, as we all know. That feeling we have when we top out on one of our hardest sends. Katie earned it this time. I think overall she fell from AFTER the crux 10 times. Way to stick with it!!

Now, on to our happenings yesterday! It went from a big group of 5-6 people down to just Remo and I. We were both still very psyched though and ready to go all over the West Bluff.

The ferry coming back through the fog.

We parked by the cottages and started hiking on the Tumbled Rocks trail, ending up across from the "Diving Rock" at the North end of the 500 Ft. field.  Remo and I had both looked at this problem before, but never tried it.  It's directly off of the Tumbled Rocks trail and is a very good problem! Both Remo and I were surprised!!  

Me on the cool unnamed V2

After I topped out the first time I noticed a pretty cool compression roof project on the backside. So many projects!!!

We each ran a couple laps on it and got some pictures before we went up the talus to find another boulder Remo had seen the last time he was at the Half Dome Project. As I was walking through the woods I vaguely recognized the boulder he was talking about. I yelled out to him that I thought it was the Dumpster Boulder. After walking closer to it I was able to confirm that it was!! So cool the be back at the boulder again.

I was excited to do the problems we put up a couple years back and even more excited to see what Remo thought of them. We started out on Dumpster Diving and Remo did it first try from a graduated start since I wasn't exactly sure where it started. I put on my kicks and re-found the start holds and did the problem first go. Probably V4?

Remo came back down and after a couple tries, figured out the feet and pulled through.

Remo on the crux crossover.

Remo sticking the last move to the ledge.

After he got down he ran a lap on a problem that Rhoads put up back when we first found the problem. I'm not sure what it's called. Rhoads???

From the top of that Remo pointed out the Half Dome boulder and we hiked over there to give it a couple goes. I still can't believe how close we were to it!! I started warming into the move and after 5 or 6 goes I stuck the first move again. The second move still feels way off but it was a good boost to do that again.

We moved on and up towards Super Slab. Super Slab is directly above the Half Dome boulder in another talus field. We detoured quickly so Remo could do an easy slab and then made our way to Super Slab. First thing is first, that wall is BIG!! It might be the most impressive slab in the park!!

We started at the boulder below that though. Remo quickly did Book of Glass and another problem next to it that were both good warmups and then showed me around the big boulder. This is another boulder that I've walked past 3 or 4 times without checking out. I'm sad that I didn't because it's amazing!! There is a very cool compression project that I should be able to do next time. Probably V7 or maybe 8 but amazing moves!! Very psyched to do it and I'm very sore from it!!

Just around the corner from that is one of the most futuristic walls I've seen at the lake. Nic, we need you to come back and tell us if this stuff is possible!!!! AMAZING!!

Remo on the Compression Project.

After the crux move going for the last sloper.

While we were sitting there Tony came up from the talus with two pads strapped to his back! We were excited to have a third person to climb with and his pads were very welcome too!

We all worked on the compression project for a bit and then went up to try Super Slab. Remo and I weren't sure how hard it would be when we first saw it but he took a jaunt up it and confirmed it V0 rating. Very cool to have such a unique slab in the park.

Remo at the bottom of Super Slab

Tony on the new classic!

Remo looking oddly tense on the insecure moves of Super Slab Right.

Tony in the crux of Super Slab Right.

Moving on from Super Slab we walked the 25 feet uphill to Jenga. I still can't believe I never climbed anything else while I was at Jenga. Jesus.

We layed the pads down and chalked up the holds. I got up on my perch and watched the show! Wow. Both Tony and Remo just dominated Jenga. It was inspiring to say the least. They both sent in a matter of tries and topped out with style! I got down and Remo took over my perch. I gave it a couple of tries and made it up to the slopers for the first time. Motivation is a funny thing though and I reached up with my left hand and decided that I'd just rather punt than make it a team send. I dropped off, for reasons unknown to me, and figured I was just tired. Oh well.

Remo on the last hard move on his second go.  

He sent next go...

Tony making quick work of Jenga.


With that we packed up and went for a mini adventure, ala Remo. We bushwhacked for maybe a half hour or so before Remo backtracked and eventually found the arete we were all looking for. It's in a little alcove at an area that needs a bit of developing.

I sat up on a boulder and backseat bouldered while Remo and Tony tried the problem. I kept on pointing out holds and telling them what to do, all the while not really having any clue what they actually had to do! It was great! I felt like Runnells!!

Eventually both Remo and Tony sent and Remo made me come down so he could take some pics. I booted up and pulled out an almost flash by getting my hand around the jug but forgetting to actually grab it. Oh well, I got it a couple goes later and it's actually a really fun problem. If you're in the area it's pretty cool.

With that we went down the talus field to the Tumbled Rocks trail and called it a day. Such a good day!!

Remo and his Organic trucker hat pointing out beta.


  1. Wow! What a day. I am re-excited to go back out there. YEAH KATIE!!! ce

  2. First off, nice work Katie. Sounds like a well deserved send.


  3. Sorry Brian. Normally I'm better than that. I'll try to do better next time sir......

  4. Good thing there's photographic evidence of me on Jenga, because I definitely couldn't get past the second move today...