No matter what we tried we seemed to hit road blocks until finally it seemed we ran out of options. While most of the info on the site was transferred over I vaguely remember some absolutely classic forum posts and discussions about the area and badly wanted to see them again.
Then today I randomly clicked on a link on Supertopo that lead to the old site. I didn't expect anything other than a "page doesn't exist" welcome note. I was happily surprised to see the old site back up and running!
I immediately opened up pretty much every page I could and started combing through it all. I highly recommend spending a couple minutes on the site as the general history of it is really interesting. A couple of the boulderers from the last generation give a couple vague hints at other still unlisted boulder problems and there are some absolute gems of comments on there.
My personal favorites:
The year of the send? I would think probably not. Remember, though it may not be listed, everything (and I mean everything) at Devil's Lake has been climbed before. However, you can climb and help relist the route. Even give it your own name. Heck, most names and ascents have been lost in time. Still, they have been done before. Boulder problems? I would seriously doubt that John Gill left anything untouched. :-)
If you dont know of the reserve then you just have to get out bouldering more. The climbers will tell you in person but not over the web! Its a special place and shouldn't get prostituted on the internet. If you're out there climbing you'll find out about the sweet spots. Please don't spew beta about the low key areas. If you know where they're at cool, if not ask people out climbing next time you're at the lake. Thanks- dlsp locals
Posts
Another good one! Think he's talking about what became Fat Pants?????
ReplyDelete"'Breadslicer' (V8-9?) I found and attempted to establish this boulder problem in August 2003 and then broke my arm and was unable to complete it--nevertheless gave it the tentative name 'Breadslicer'. Something of potencial interest that seemed untouched by human hands and seems completely unknown by the locals I've spoken to. It's a sick overhanging 13' problem: a razor-sharp starting hold that looks and feels like a serrated blade (hence the name 'Breadslicer') and two hard variations (the left solution or the right solution) with a tumultuous three-tiered fall-zone requiring about four trustworthy spotters, the whole thing being well-protected by nesting yellow-jackets!! You'll need about at least three bouldering pads if you plan to go for it.
Hidden well-behind the Guillotine Area (about as far north as you can venture before you are in the woods) it's still worth checking out. The holds are few and far-between, just barely good enough, tricky, and there is no room for error. An early fall lands you on the sharp bridge of a rock; a mid-point fall will send you into the second tier--a precarious position for the spotters (the spotters will need spotters); and a higher fall will send you out into a third lower tier--which adds another 6-10 feet to the fall! And if that isn't enough, the problem is well protected by nesting yellow-jackets!!
If you decide to pass it up there are a number of easier problems between the Guillotine and 'Breadslicer', about 100 feet east of 'The Flatiron'. I've seen no-one outside of myself climb these either."
Awesome find Steve!
ReplyDeleteOops about the Reserve and posting it on MP;). I remember that being the way things were back in early 2000's. If you wanted to find the Reserve you had to go through a local. Now I'm not sure anyone gives a shit. Mike L. and I were just out there on Tuesday and it's not like there are hundreds of people climbing out there, the top-outs were still a little dirty. Too funny.
And that has to be Fat Pants! What else could it be?
Remo
Awesome! Yup sure sounds like fat pants... And yes having taken the three tier fall I can vouch for its accuracy!
ReplyDeleteI was randomly out at dinner once about 4 years ago before the reserve was posted up, and this dude was there, a friend of a friend. He wouldnt tell me where it was. Said "it's hard to describe".
I thought "you're easy to describe -- an asshole!"
Lol. Thanks Steve!
C$
Too funny man. What a change in culture DL has had over the years.
ReplyDeletedefinitely can cut your asshole with a fall on fat pants. just ask Jeremy.
ReplyDeletePB