Friday, April 6, 2012


A little bit of knowledge is proving to be a dangerous thing. Katie and I went back up to the Cheddarmilker project yesterday evening for an hour or two. In short, nothing noteworthy happened. I adjusted my right hand a bit and it feels less tweaky and more solid now but I still couldn't do the big bump move. I was able to get some contact on the hold and I think the move is doable.

That said, it's a far ways off as of now. I need to get much better as a climber, not just stronger, to be able to do this one. When my progress is measured in how much skin I lose each try it becomes clear I should try some other things for a bit.

After we were done freezing our asses off in the air conditioned cave we went for a search. Katie found a number of boulders that may have something and we also finally saw that giant slab that looms over the north end of the talus fields. Sadly it's a death landing but it is absolutely incredible. Maybe we can fill in the pit a bit...

Then on the way back we stopped by and looked at the boulder that Tony found. It is very cool and is a great find by Tony. I'm excited to go back and try it. He gave it some effort and came away thinking it might be possible, but very hard. I can only imagine it's hard as Tony is a strong one. Also looks like there's a pretty cool warmup or two over that way.

New boulders!

I think we're gonna try to get out tomorrow morning before the rain hits. We'll see!


  1. From the couple of crappy pictures on MP it is hard to get an idea of what this thing is all about (like how good the holds are etc). I want to see this thing in person!

  2. Well, the holds are pretty shitty. The right hand undercling is maybe a 1/2 pad crimp and the left hand is just a sloper with a little thumb catch. The wall is pretty steep and your feet are super small and way below you. It feels incredibly hard.

    Like I said in the post, it was progress when I was able to release the compression enough to thrutch to the next hold. Even more progress when I touched it long enough to lose skin. Really impressive boulder.

  3. Wow, neat. I can't wait to see it. You should shoot a little video of the holds/failing attempts...? For us non climbers in Chicago :-)

  4. who is Bass for your Face or whatever that is and where is he from? Just watched that video with the FA of Humility Contest and I want to do it badddddly!

  5. Any pics of the giant slab?

  6. giant slab is pretty nice, showed katie some pics on my phone (none of which turned out well enough to be worth posting). definitely some other nice ones up there worth checking out. if you're around this weekend we should cruise around that zone.