Monday, May 2, 2011


I'm just gonna start a tally:

Sandstone Violence - Esser
Tunder Tighs - Remo, Aaron, Esser. Eggnutz and Ian repeated it
Remo's Sacrifice - Ian
Hipsters - V5 FA - Dobbe, Remo
So Dope - Eggballs 2nd Ascent
Beautiful Soup - Tony B.
Alpine Club - Ian
Hangman - Sarah McCoy
Split Personality - Ben Rosen
Punts - Yours truly

Another good weekend. Highlights for sure are Chris and Sarah cleaning up projects at Dodge and the Sunday crew up at the West Bluff. To start things off on Sunday Remo dispatched TT first go and Aaron satched it up 5th go I think. Really strong work there.

While that was going on I was attempting to warm up as Dobbe found the little cave that The Hipsters comes out of. After making fun of him a bit I tried it and it's actually super cool. Really powerful opening moves and a surprisingly pumpy finish. We were both kind of surprised at how cool it was. For those that are wondering, it's just down the hill from Tunder Tighs and sits on top of the big roof down there.

Good work Dobbe, and good eye.

After a little playing around on Remo's Sacrifice Chris and I gave some burns on Tunder Tighs. He nearly flashed it but had a damn fine dry fire while going for the topout jugs. He did it next try without a problem. I had a few more troubles on it even if I'd hoped to give it a good flash effort. Instead of doing the toe hook switch off of the high left hand break I figured out that I had to do that off the left hand sloper and then bump up to the good hold. Not a big deal but it was finicky the whole way.

Same thing with the big left hand move off the break. Instead of the good right foot, it went on a little smear. I, very happily, just figured out the chick beta. Except for Katie's beta which will be so jacked it won't even be funny since she can't physically span the upper move.

So with that figured out I gave some burns from the start, each time losing more and more skin. After a few tries, and one falling right at the lip, I found myself at the good right hand jug over the lip.

I'd promised myself I wouldn't fall there. I knew that TT sucked in punts like a dangerous vortex. I saw it happen to Aaron. I heard it happen to Remo. It wasn't going to happen. I wasn't falling there.

I fell there.

Ian called it one of the best punts he'd ever seen. Said it was super proud. I dunno about that but it was a goodie. For those that are interested, I fell with my fingertips on the second jug trying in vain to get as much of me on the boulder as possible. Instead I just slid down the slab into the pit.

I just didn't have it in me to try again.

So Ian took off with Eggsack to try Alpine Club and Chris and I did what we do best. We moved boulders. While we didn't get the giant block into the pit under the project we were able to move it about 3-4 feet to the north directly where the punting pit was. We should be able to move it a bit more and make the landing rather nice.

In the process we discovered that the talus around there is super unstable and really gnarly. We filled some holes, left some others and bent one of these:


When we're done the landing will be fitting of a problem as good as Tunder Tighs. While I risk inflating Nic's ego even more, I have to say that this problem is hands down one of the best at the lake. Its quality is incredible and the movement is rather amazing. The holds are all solid, comfy and unique making TT an absolute must do at the grade. Every single person who has gotten on it has said the same and credit goes to Nic for figuring it out in 90 degree heat.

It falls very easily into the top 5 at the lake. Ask anyone.

Once again it was really nice to see and hear so many people at different areas yesterday. There were people at Anchorpoint, Tunder Tighs, Massive Vertigo, Beautiful Soup and I think the North Shore. DL is full on blowing up right now. I love it.


  1. Amazing day! DL bouldering is the best!
    Side note: Ian almost flashed PM and should have sent S&C this morning. We got good video of the Monolith classics. We also worked the piss out of Bulbous and made some headway. That thing is hard!

  2. 89% humidity! FML!


  3. Amazing spring weekend, once again. NICE WORK ON A.C. IAN!!! Take note everyone. Beer made Apline Club go for Ian. Just like I said it would.

    I can't wait to go back and try So Dope Direct, or whatever Ian would like to call that one. That seems to be the money line on that face. ce

  4. Really psyched he was able to clean that one up. He definitely credited the beer afterwards.

  5. I just got a text from Ian. Turns out he sent Bulbous after I left. Sick!!! The dude is on fire.

  6. he needs to go find some hard projects... he's running out of stuff to do.

    We also should give some love to sandona and desalvo for TT since they had the vision on the boulder so long ago. Granted Nic started a couple moves lower but they still deserve props for the vision a long time ago.

    I need pictures of this 'So Dope' I can't picture it. and props to Dobbe for his find. I've been in that area a handful of times and have never noticed that boulder that he developed.

  7. Very good point sweaty. I always forget that Peter and Brian were up there a long time ago.

    Dobbe's line is super funny. Totally unassuming but really cool. You were standing literally 5 feet from it. I'll take some pics of So Dope next time I'm up there.

  8. I wonder how long it had been since Bulbous had an ascent. A decade, I bet.

    Anyone in for Thursday afternoon weather permitting? If it looks like it'll be rainy Thursday I plan to head out Wednesday ~5pm instead. ce

  9. ive never even seen this bulbous thing. must go to MP now...

  10. I know that Todd and Mike used to run laps on Bulbous circa 2003...

  11. i need to know where these mystery videos of Ian climbing things are? who do i have to fuck around here to get a ICB youtube channel?

  12. Jenga: Blair Seidlitz, JJ Czaplewski, Dylan Colon

    Pretty cool. From what it sounded like was that Dylan did it in around a half hour of work and JJ did it quick in the first day and Blair did it in two sessions. How I wish I actually climbed anymore...

    School sucks.

  13. I'm saving all the video for a longer clmbing vid. I already got a 10 minute Devil's Lake section. I'll keep putting captures from the video on facebook and though.. Ian

  14. Ian,

    Please do something harder, cooler, and farther away form other problems so I can get syked and some out. I.E. ROOF PROJECT.


  15. Ian. This is uncalled for sir. You must share regularly or else I will sic the Brown one on you... And he is brown, so be scarred!

  16. I should also be noted that there was a ninja warrior marathon on all weekend long. and the wife was gone for a race in Ohio. I must have watched over 20 hours worth of Ninja Warrior in 2 days... I am also now fluent in Japanese from watching the show. anybody else feel like they would dominate that shit?

  17. Sweaty I am very disappointed to hear that your wife was gone all weekend and you were watching TV and nowhere near the Lake. For shame!!! ce

  18. Hello.... I was watching Ninja Warrior. Way cooler. I was also busy spraining my ankle in my soccer match Sunday morning. Slightly less cool than the lake obviously. I'm so old you can call me eggnuts

  19. Nic, The roof project is going to break. I am sick of choss projects so I will not bother (it looks pretty cool though). I am looking and I know the mega is out there. These new lines are all fun though, even though they happen to be on top of established ones... and skin friendly for the most part which is super cool. Ian

  20. Ian, have you tried the seam project? After you do that there should be a really hard sit start to it starting down and left perhaps?

  21. Steve's gonna send the Seam project. It's as good as done... unless he keeps punting... Ian