Thursday, November 12, 2009


Not a whole lot went down yesterday. My skin was still a little thin from Beautiful Soup and I didn't want to risk an even worse split so I didn't try it. We warmed up at the North Shore and then hiked straight up to Moj.

I messed around on the project directly left of Moj and got SHUT DOWN! I couldn't even stay on the wall long enough to try a move. It's kinda crazy. All the handholds are good crimps or sidepulls but the feet are f-ing horrible. They're like Perfect Medium style footholds on an overhung wall. It's incredible.

I definitely think that the moves will go but I'm not sure how hard it will be. Barndoor moves on bad feet aren't my specialty and I'd love to work it with some other folks.

In the time that I tried those moves, and failed, I had apparently gotten completely cold. Katie had shoved herself into her jacket and my big puffy while I was hanging out in a t-shirt.

I was kinda frustrated that I couldn't do any of the moves and just wanted to do something! Anything! So I moved the big pad over to Moj and quickly repeated the crux move on Moj two times in a row. It felt good yesterday and both times I actually missed the jug and stuck the sloper edge of the hold instead. I think I've just got that move wired right now.

After that we packed up a left for home. A nice relaxing day.

In other news Remo finally sent Moj! Congrats man! I'm glad you got it done! He also found a bunch of very cool looking projects up in the East Bluff Talus fields. I'm very excited to check those out soon!

This weekend looks like it might be promising if the rain holds off for Saturday. Let's hope!


  1. I'm so glad that I don't have to hike up there to do that thing anymore. But your right about getting it wired, I think I know the exact body tension for it now. Such a fun problem! Also checked out the moves on the line left of Moj. Hard for sure! Nic when are you coming back?

  2. Did you try any of the moves on the project?? Felt really freaking hard!

    Chris, what did you get on????? I know you're stalking here....

  3. I am thinking of coming in this weekend, Maybe even tonight? The weather looks like shit so I will probably hit up Sandstone and try my little project.


    If (When) the project goes I will start to head to DL more. I want to do hard problems on slippery rock.

  4. That's wierd cause I want to do hard problems on textured rock... lol.

    Sorry I didnt make it last Sat Steve. I woke up at 730 to eat breakfast before I came and as the food kind of settled I realized that I probably wasnt up to coming out and should prolly rest since I had to travel with work on Monday. You have no idea how bummed I was sir!


  5. LOL Steve, yeah I'm lurking. SHUT DOWN on Jenga. Taking 4 weeks basically off of climbing has not been kind. Great problem, did it all except the crux bump from right hand sloper up to the good one. Even though I was weak and lame it was great to be out. Such a beautiful day and area. Love it. Can't wait to get a little training in and get back at it. So psyched for you Remo. ce