Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Fall Predictions/Birthday Challenge

As most of you know I made some predictions earlier this year and want to give it sort of an update as we're about halfway through fall right now.

1 - "Alpine Club will be climbed 2 more times before year end."

I still think this will hold true. There are multiple people that are psyched on it and a couple that are close. I would like to go up with a motivated group. I need something to inspire me again on that line.

2 - "Beautiful Soup will be climbed 3 more times before year end."

I'm pretty confident this will happen. Sweaty wants to work it and is strong enough to do it. Remo could do it with some motivation. He just needs to clean up some other projects first. Aaron and Gabe have yet to try it but it's definitely doable. Dobbe mentioned that he was close this spring and Mr. Eggbert just needs to try it with us. On top of that I'm closer than ever on this thing. High on my list.

3 - "Keymaker will get its second and third ascent."

BOOM! One down, one to go. Who's in?? This WILL happen!

4 - "Perfect Medium will get sent twice by year end."

BOOM!! For those that don't know, Remo sent yesterday and Mr. Bonamici sent earlier in the fall. DONE BISHES!! Plus Gabe will send next time he tries it. DO IT!

5 - "The Greatest Show On Earth will get done at least once."

Who wants to help me clean this rig?? Nic, Remo and I are all pretty psyched about it. Lets finally do the problem justice.

6 - "I will finally RE-find Massive Vertigo."

DONE!! Massive Vertigo is getting so much action it doesn't know what to do with itself! Sweaty made a really quick ascent and more will follow suit this fall.

7 - "RV and I will finally fucking do Sandstone Violence and get that shit behind us."

The Brown child is sadly out of town for the year and may not be able to fulfill his end of the bargain. I fully intend to sack up.

Not bad so far. It's impressive how much action the lake has had recently.

And in the second act of my latest post I'd like to take some time to talk about the Birthday Challenge.

First off I added a problem that Steve Day and I did back in late 2005 called Steve's Eliminate. It's contrived, fun and kind of absurd. It's also exactly how I started my last challenge. I'm excited to change how the challenge ends.

I've taken Venus Rising off of the list as my motivation to repeat it just wasn't there. Plus it took skin too quickly for my taste. In its place I've decided to add Moj to the lineup. It was only logical.

I've also added both of the main cracks on the Tombstone wall to the list. It's important that this list incorporate as many of the different generations of climbers that have come through the lake and I feel like both of those are worthy additions.

I also added in a couple more warmups from the phenomenal Super Slab area.

1 - Burma Warmup - V0
2 - Murder Slab - V2
3 - Steve's Eliminate - V5
4 - Big Bud Arete - V2
5 - Geise Dome - V2
6 - Slope of Dadaism - V3
7 - Shawn's Slab - V0
8 - Bark Biter - V4
9 - Perfect Medium - V8-9
10 - Tombstone Right Crack - V0
11 - Tombstone Left Crack - V0
12 - The Zipper - V8
13 - The Flatiron - V4
14 - Alpine Club - V9
15 - Beautiful Soup - V8
16 - Anchorpoint - V6/7
17 - Intercourse Arete - V3
18 - Recreational Vehicle - V4
19 - Trust Fund - V0
20 - Pete's Pebble - V2
21 - Dumpster Diving - V4
22 - Book of Glass - V0
23 - Wall of Glass - V0
24 - Moj - V8
25 - Super Slab - V0
26 - Jenga - V6

Now, some of you may notice that Alpine Club is still on the list. I just couldn't take it off yet. My best guess is that it'll be off the list if I can't do it this year. I'm open to ideas of what to replace it with. Tell me! What should I do?!?!?

I like how the list is set up right now though. It makes sense and is going to be really hard for me but still seems somewhat possible. I think what I like the most about it though is that it goes through many different generations of climbers. Here's the list of FA'ist's that I know of.

John Gill
Eric Z.
Paul Jones
Peter De Salvo
Brian Sandona
Jay Knower

I really like that these problems are all classic in their own rights and it's a list of problems that I'd be incredibly proud to have done.

As a side note it looks like we may try and have a party up at the lake afterwards. Both RV and I are gonna be attempting a circuit that day and we're thinking of renting out the small shelter on the north shore and having drinks and food by the lake. Who's in??

Also, RV, what is your circuit gonna be?? Or are you gonna try the same one as me??? We want to know.


  1. I'll be back home thanksgiving. I almost headed down this weekend but decided to clip bolts instead. I'll do my best to make your predictions come true in the late fall / early winter.

  2. Wait, good point nic; you're posting a birthday challenge circuit for 2010?!?

  3. Stoked Steve! That is a great list. Maybe Greatest show? Thats if it gets good and clean this fall. Count me in man, sounds like a blast.

  4. Great list Steve! I am not sure about me and Beautiful Soup, I felt *way* closer on Perfect Medium than B.S. but I know this will screw up your predictions! I am currently suffering from a couple acute and chronic nagging injuries (I am alomst 40, a fact I sometimes try to forget about, UGH) so we'll see how this fall shapes up. If I can make it I will be totally psyched. NEED TO GET ON MASSIVE VERTIGO!!!!!!! ce

  5. The challenge is gonna be on March 27th, next year. I wanted to get a list together before fall so I'd have some idea of what I'd be up against. Plus I like having something to look forward too!

    I want to wait and see what Greatest Show turns out to be like before I add it. Lets clean it Remo!

    Chris, you should just send both!! And yes, I think you'll like Massive!!!!

  6. AHA!!! March then! Well count me in. ce

  7. if you clean they (I) will come.


  8. My sentiments exactly! I also will let u do all the work and then take advantage!