Thursday, October 11, 2012


Katie and I spent a couple days this weekend and again last night up by Smooth Operator trying a couple of the nice new problems left from this spring.  Katie set her sights on Fat Raccoon and I set mine on What Up Weasel.

Katie finished up Fat Raccoon last night in impressive fashion and did a new, more direct finish to it.  Oddly enough she used holds that Chris used when he did the problem this spring but ended up cutting out 4-5 moves that got you out onto the left arete.

It was impressive just how fast she did the line and the crux move is childs play for her now as she can repeat it relatively on command.  Last night she definitely did that move more times than she didn't, that's for sure.

Fittingly enough we saw a very fat Raccoon on our way out of the park.

My time on Weasel didn't go as well as we were hoping but I was able to do the moves and came agonizingly close to finishing last night.  Unfortunately we ran out of light and I ran out of energy on the surprisingly physical line.

After spending a couple days on it this past weekend my body was wrecked and I still couldn't do the crux lurch.  Took a couple days off and then did the crux the first two times I tried it last night.  Funny how shit like that works.

I also think I figured out an easier topout than what others have used.  Did you guys really match on the slopers and go out right???  So much easier to grab the giant jug six inches from your left hand and directly above your left foot.

Really looking forward to hopping back on both of those problems though!  They're excellent.

Here are some pics.  Fun.


  1. Great job Katie! Crushing!
    Steve, I had the same issues with Weasel. Just getting too tired by the end of each session to do it. It's a physical beast. But when it goes it feels effortless.

  2. Yeah, the two times I did the move it felt like V2. In link though it feels brutal. On one try I actually started laughing because of how hard I had to squeeze when I missed the good left hand and hit just below it on the arete.

    Great, phenomenal problem though! And it's stupid just how close it is to Smooth OP!!!!! Absurd.

  3. Nice post Steve. Katie is just crushing. So fun to see.

    Looks like Sunday will be rained out. Bummer. C$